Saturday 23 November 2013

Sometimes nothing else will do...

What is your favourite pie, tart or cake? Is it a traditional Victoria Sponge? Chocolate cake? Carrot cake? Do you prefer an Upside-Down cake? Or are you more a type for Cheesecake? Cupcakes? Angel (or Devil's) Food Cake? Brownies? What about an impressive Pavlova? Treacle Tart? A posh Tarte Tatin? Banoffee Pie? Fruit Crumble?

I like love all of the above but what about a perfectly ordinary Apple Pie? Crispy, sweet, pastry stuffed to bursting with fresh, tart, apples. Baked in the oven to golden perfection and served with either custard or ice cream. Nothing fancy, nothing posh, but sometimes nothing else will do.

Apple Pie is near enough ancient, dating back to the 1300s (in the UK) when the apples were mixed with saffron, figs, spices and pears. In The Netherlands the recipes started around the same time but have little changed since 1514. America and Canada had to wait for apple pie until the 1700s when planting of European apple varieties in the English colonies took place to become fruit-bearing apple trees, to be selected for their cooking qualities, as there were no native apples. Apple pie in The Netherlands was so important that in 1626, the Dutch Golden Age, it was captured in a painting...

The major difference between English and Dutch Apple Pie is the fact that the Dutch do not cook their apples prior to filling the pastry. This creates a firmer texture, a higher pie and (I think) a better apple flavour. (But the main benefit of not cooking the apples prior to filling the pie has got to be the amount of time saved, not to mention less pots and pans to clean...Another difference is the lid of the pie: the English usually cover the pie with a full pastry lid where the Dutch prefer to create a pastry lattice so that some of the filling is on show.
Growing up, we had a massive garden with a couple of apple and pear trees. My mum had one rule when it came to those trees: we didn't pick the fruit until after her birthday mid-September. Our haul of apples each year was usually significant and my mum would use them for apple sauce or compote and, of course, apple pie. Fancy as Apple Charlotte or Tarte Tatin, or simply as a traditional apple pie with loads of cinnamon and sultanas. The most requested pie for any of our birthdays? Apple pie, regardless whether the birthday was in April, June, September, November or December... Fashionable or not, I will gladly make, bake, slice and eat Apple Pie... Sue me... Or ask me real sweetly and I will bake one for you...
(Dutch) Apple Pie
Ingredients:
For the pastry:
  • 2 eggs
  • 500 gram self-rising flour
  • 300 gram cubed ice cold butter
  • 175 gram brown sugar
  • A pinch of salt
  • zest of ½ lemon
For the filling:
  • 300 gram sultanas
  • 2 tablespoons brandy (or cognac or rum)
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • 1 kilogram tart apples
  • 75 gram brown sugar
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 2 teaspoons 'speculaas kruiden'
  • 1 tablespoon corn flour
Method:
For the Pastry:
  1. Whisk the eggs loose
  2. Sift the flour into a large mixing bowl
  3. Add the cold butter and work this into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs
  4. Add most of the egg (keep about a tablespoon of the egg behind to brush the pie with later), the brown sugar, salt and lemon zest
  5. Knead the dough until the dough comes together into a ball and set aside for 20 minutes
  6. Grease a large springform cake pan (24 cm x 6.5 cm/10" x 2 1/2")
  7. Cover the bottom and sides of the dish with 3/4 of the dough
For the filling:

  1. In a small bowl, steep the sultanas in the brandy for at least an hour
  2. Peel and core the apples and cut them into bite-sized pieces
    • Mix the apples with the lemon juice to prevent them from 'browning' to quickly
  3. Mix the sultanas, brown sugar, cinnamon and spices in with the apples
  4. Sprinkle the corn flour over and mix well

To make the pie:
  1. Preheat the oven to 175°C
  2. Add the apple mixture to the pie dish and firmly press down
  3. Use the rest of the dough to make the lattice topping
    • Arrange some strips one way and some strips the other way, press to fix it to the sides and fold the dough back in towards the pie. It should not be hanging over the pie dish, otherwise it will stick
  4. Brush the pastry with the egg wash
  5. Place the pie in the centre of the oven and bake for approximately 1 hour
  6. Allow the pie to cool in the springform and then carefully turn out
Tips and Tricks:
  • I don't bother to roll the dough out and cut it as it is pretty sticky and causes a mess. I simply wet my hands and shape it by hand, pressing the dough into the pie dish in a uniform thickness. As for the lattice-work, I shape them by hand into longish sausage shapes, which I press flat onto the pie. The pie will rise and hide a multitude of sins
Variations:
  • If you don't have 'speculaas kruiden', you could use mixed spice or pumpkin pie spices instead, or you can simply stick to the original recipe and use 3 teaspoons ground cinnamon. I do love the depth of flavour that the speculaas kruiden seem to add. You can also make your own speculaas kruiden
  • In stead of using corn flour in the apple filling, try using 1 tablespoon custard powder
    • Both corn flour and custard powder will take some of the liquid of the apples and prevent 'soggy bottom' syndrome in your pie
  • Try replacing half of the apples for pears
    • Leave out he sugar as the pears will act as a natural sweetener
  • Another way of preventing 'soggy bottom' syndrome is to add some ground almonds or almond paste
    • Once you have placed your dough in the pie dish, add a thin layer of the almond paste or ground almonds, add the apples and finish as above
  • For an alcohol-free version, try soaking the sultanas in some tea or apple juice
As we say back home
Eet smakelijk
Or, in English
Enjoy

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