Saturday 19 July 2014

Back to the Past

One of my favourite things to do on a cold, but dry, crisp winters day is to go out for a walk in the woods. The best thing about it is, probably, coming back home into the warmth and wrapping myself in a blanket on the sofa and my hands around a steaming bowl of fresh soup. But even now in summer, with temperatures soaring, I do like a bowl of soup. Fair enough, the bowl of soup contains different ingredients but the principle is the same: stock, vegetables, protein, starch. Perhaps a noodle soup with ginger, spring onions, bean sprouts, chili and chicken. Or maybe a chilled pea soup with lovage and creme fraiche (I know, mom, who ever thought I would eat pea soup...) or a light fish soup with haddock and sweet corn.

What ever soup it is I am making, I do prefer to make a soup with homemade stock. Using a stock cube might seem a like good, quick and easy option but I find they usually lack flavour and just add a lot of salt. Of course, there is something to be said for low-sodium, free-range stock cubes but they are more often than not very expensive.

It used to be common for people to make their own stocks but these days people think it is difficult and time-consuming. But it doesn't have to be. In principle, making your own stock is not more difficult than bringing a pan of water to the boil and letting it simmer and not more time-consuming than cooking your average meal. The benefit of making a big pan of stock is that you can freeze it. It does lose some of its taste but not massively so and if you reduce the stock to concentrate the flavour it is actually a very handy thing to have in the freezer. Besides, stock will last three to four days in the fridge, after which time you can bring it back to the boil and keep it for another 3-4 days, practically indefinitely.

There are various options for stock but the two main categories are: Fond Blanc (white stock) and Fond Brun (brown stock). For white stock you use raw bones and for brown stock you use... You guessed it, roasted bones.  Chicken bones are mainly used for white stock and veal or beef bones are mainly used for brown stock but Fish and Vegetable stock are also white stocks. (Bones,) vegetables and water in a pan + simmering = stock. The vegetables you use for making stock is called mirepoix and consists (usually) of onion, leeks, carrot and celery but for a white stock you would mainly use the white parts of vegetables.

The most time consuming of all the various options for stock is brown stock as the bones need roasting and are then simmered for several hours to get the deep brown colour. The quickest to make are fish and vegetable stock as they only need about 20-25 minutes. 
Brown Stock
Ingredients:

  • 500 gram beef of veal bones
  • Mirepoix
    • 2 chopped carrots
    • 2 diced onions
    • 2 chopped celery sticks
  • 1 tablespoons tomato paste
  • Enough water to cover the bones
  • Bouquet Garni (herbs and spices tied in a cloth for ease of use)
    • Dried thyme
    • Parsley stems
    • Bayleaf
    • Peppercorns
    • Cloves
Method:

  1. Preheat oven to 200°C
  2. Place the bones in a heavy bottomed roasting pan. Drizzle them with a bit of vegetable oil if you like
  3. Roast the bones for about half an hour
  4. Add the mirepoix to the roasting pan and continue roasting for another half an hour
    • Toward the end of the roasting, add 1 tablespoon of tomato paste or dilute the paste with a little water and brush the bones thinly with this before you start roasting them
  5. When the bones are thoroughly browned, remove the roasting pan from the oven and transfer the bones to a heavy-bottomed stockpot
  6. Add enough cold water to the pot to completely cover the bones, about 1 litre per 500 gram bones
  7. Bring the pot to a boil, then immediately lower the heat to a simmer
  8. Skim off the scum that rises to the surface with a slotted spoon
  9. Add the roasted mirepoix to the pot along with the Bouquet Garni; tie the sachet string to the stockpot handle for easy retrieval later
  10. Continue to simmer the stock and skim the impurities that rise to the surface
    • Liquid will evaporate, so make sure there's always enough water to cover the bones
  11. After anywhere from 4 to 6 hours, once the stock has developed a rich brown colour, remove the pot from the heat
  12. Strain the stock through a sieve lined with a few layers of cheesecloth. Cool the stock quickly, using an ice bath if necessary
Some hints and tips when making brown stock:
  • The best bones to use for making stock are ones with a lot of cartilage, such as the so-called "knuckle" bones in the various leg joints. The bones of younger animals also have more cartilage, which is why veal bones are so desirable
  • Always start with cold water when making stock. It will help extract more collagen from the bones, which will produce a stock with more body
  • Don't let the stock boil, but rather keep it at a gentle simmer with bubbles just breaking the surface. Also, don't stir the stock while it simmers. Just let it do its thing. All you need to worry about is skimming the scum off the top, and possibly adding more water if the liquid level drops too low
Glace de Viande
Glace de Viande is the fancy name for brown stock that has been reduced to an almost syrupy consistency and is used to fortify sauces. A spoonful of glace de viande is a great way to add flavour to other dishes. It stores well in the freezer, so in a pinch you can add water and turn the glace back into stock again.
Here's how to make it:

  1. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the stock (see above) to a boil and then lower the heat to medium
    • As the stock simmers, you may see scum or other impurities rise to the surface. Skim these impurities off with a ladle
  2. Once the stock has reduced by a little over half, pour it through a mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a smaller pot
  3. Lower the heat a bit and continue reducing, skimming as needed
  4. The glace is finished when the liquid has reduced by about three fourths and the glace is thick and syrupy
    • When you stir it, the glaze should coat the back of your spoon
  5. Let the glace cool, transfer it to a container with a lid and refrigerate or freeze
It might seem all a bit daunting, but I promise it is well worth having stock to hand like this. Whether it is to make a soup or light broth, a sauce or as a base for a stew, stock is versatile. Whatever you use your stock for:
Enjoy!

Wednesday 9 July 2014

Summertime, and the livin' is easy

Gone is the time for hearty stews and stodgy pies. It's too warm. Too humid. But hey, it beats freezing temperatures and rain... Still, the last thing I want to do is stand in a kitchen for hours trying to come up with a meal. I want something quick and easy. And it has to be fresh and light. Something that screams 'Summertime is here!'. The livin' is easy, fish are jumping (preferably onto my plate) and cotton is high fashion in high temperatures...

The first things that spring to mind are barbeque and salads. I love to bbq. But... our back yard has a 45º slope; not ideal when trying to cook something over hot coals... Salads are perfect. Every colour of the rainbow can find it's way onto your plate: Red tomatoes, Pink radishes, Purple beetroot, Blue cornflowers, Green cucumber, Yellow peppers, Orange carrots. And you can be as adventurous as you want with the starch: potatoes, couscous, bulgur wheat, quinoa, rice, pasta, noodles. The same goes for protein: beef, pork, chicken, poultry, eggs, cheese, fish, tofu. You can add crunch in the form of nuts and seeds or fancy croutons. And the dressings... The same vegetables, protein, starch and crunch can taste completely different depending on the dressing you use... From 'simple' vinegar and oil to 'fancy' soy sauce and sesame oil, the options are near endless.

But, today I don't want to talk about salads. Let's face it: there is only so much 'rabbit food' you can eat. Even if it is summer and the rainbow has found it's way onto your plate... And the oven will never be able to replace the bbq, no matter what anybody says. But, every now and then, I do fancy something 'proper'. Something to fill my belly, not too healthy but high in flavour and satisfaction. But it does have to be easy and it would be even better if it can be made in advance so that I only have to heat it up come tea time.

Sloppy Joes
Ingredients:

  • 700-800 grams ground beef
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 240 millilitre ketchup
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons mustard
  • 2 tablespoons vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 200 grams cheese (grated or sliced)
  • 6 slices of toast or 3 bread buns

Method:
  1. Cook the ground beef with the onion and the salt in a shallow frying pan
  2. In a saucepan, mix together the ketchup, sugar, mustard, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce and cook over low heat for 15 minutes
  3. Drain the fat from the beef and add the meat to the sauce
  4. Leave to simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring from time to time
  5. Serve on toasted bread or buns, topped with cheese
So there you have it, quick and simple. Easily made during the weekend, stuck in the fridge or freezer and simply reheated when you want a slightly more filling meal during the summer. Serve with coleslaw, fries and pickles.

Enjoy