Sunday 27 October 2013

Tradition

The dictionary states "tradition: a belief, principle, or way of acting that people in a particular society or group have continued to follow for a long time, or all of these beliefs, etc. in a particular society or group".
Traditions come and go, change over time or our understanding of traditions change. Family traditions disappear as families move on, national and even international traditions are forgotten or are adapted to fit cultural and religious beliefs.

My family had a tradition: we celebrated St Nicholas, on December 5 or 6; gifts for all, sometimes accompanied by (funny) riddles or puzzles and at least one per person had an indicative poem. Christmas, however, was an individual family feast. A, real, tree (with real candles and a bucket of water), scrumptious food but only one present; my grandfather used to buy a book for each of his children and grandchildren at Christmas. A tradition I still, very much, appreciate but that has petered out as the family moved on.

Christmas itself is one of those international traditions that has changed over time and our understanding of it has changed dramatically over the centuries. Who, for instance, knew that it has its roots firmly in Roman times as Saturnalia, later used by the Christians to 'convert' Pagans. Or that the oh so popular term 'Xmas' is based on the Greek for Christ: 'Xristos'. Did you know that the modern-day Santa Claus was 'born' in 1931? Nicolas was born in Parara, Turkey (270-345 AD) and later became Bishop of Myra. He didn't become a Saint until the 18-hundreds. In 1087 his remains were brought to Bari, Italy, where he replaced Pasqua Epiphania (the Grandmother) and became the giver of gifts and a cult was formed. This cult was adopted by German and Celtic pagans and Nicolas merged with the Norse god Woden. Nicolas shed his Mediterranean appearance, grew a long white beard, mounted a flying horse and rescheduled his flight from Autumn to December, whilst donning some heavy winter clothing. The Catholic Church adopted the Nicolas cult and moved his flight and giving of gifts from December 6 to 25 to bring it in line with Saturnalia.

Then, in 1809, Washington Irving wrote a satire of Dutch culture (Knickerbocker History) which featured Nicolas using his Dutch name Sinterklaas or Santa Claus. In 1822, Dr Clement Moore based his 'Twas the night before Christmas' on Irving's work and gave Santa Claus his eight reindeer. Thomas Nast, a Bavarian illustrator, (almost) completed Santa's picture by giving him a home on the North pole, filling his workshop with elves and his list of naughty and nice children. And then, in 1931, Coca-Cola contracted Swedish artist Haddon Sundblom to create a coke drinking Santa. Sundblom modeled his version of Santa on a friend with a cheerful, chubby face and donned him in a fur-trimmed, Coca-Cola red, suit: Santa was born, a blend of Christian crusader, pagan god, and commercial idol.

My all-time favourite 'snack' at Sinterklaas and Christmas is an almond paste filled stave or wreath: moorish and sweet almond paste encased in puff pastry, decorated with (very seventies) glacé cherries or whole almonds.

Christmas Wreath
 (not for decoration)

Ingredients:
Almond paste
250 gram ground almonds
  • 250 gram granulated sugar
  • 2 whole eggs, lightly beaten
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • 5 teaspoons lemon juice
Method:
Almond paste
  1. Add the ground almonds and sugar to a food mixer and give it a quick mix
  2. Turn the mix into a bowl and add the eggs, lemon zest and juice
  3. Give it a quick mix to form a paste
Wrap the paste in cling film and leave to rest. The longer it gets to rest the better developed the flavour will be and the paste can be made several weeks in advance and kept in the fridge.

When you are ready to make the wreaths:

Make puff pastry (see here for ingredients and method), you will need approximately one-third of the recipe, and leave to rest in the fridge (I find it easier to make the recipe as is and just divide it into three, even, pieces). You can, of course, also use ready-made puff pastry, or even rough-puff pastry.

Method:
Christmas wreath

  1. Separate one egg and loosely whisk the egg white
  2. Beat the egg yolk with a little milk
  3. Roll the puff pastry out to approx. 1.5 cm thick, 10 cm wide and 64 cm long
  4. Straighten the short sides with a knife
  5. Take the almond paste and form this into a roll slightly shorter than the length of the pastry
  6. Place the role of almond paste in the middle of the pastry so that the edge of the roll is flush with the pastry
  7. Fold one of the long edges of the pastry loosely over the almond paste
  8. Brush the other edge with the beaten egg white and fold it over the first layer and gently press the two layers together
  9. Gently push the edge of the pastry with the almond paste into the pastry without the paste, make sure the stuffing fits well, to form a circle (the wreath)
  10. 'Glue' the seam with a bit off the egg white
  11. Place the wreath, seam side down, on a wet baking tray (re-shape if necessary)
  12. Brush the wreath with the beaten egg yolk and let it rest for 30 minutes in the fridge to firm up
  13. Preheat the oven to 200ºC
  14. Brush the wreath again and place in the bottom of the oven
  15. Bake in 30 to 40 minutes until golden brown and cooked, do not open the oven door during the first 15 minutes of baking
  16. Release the wreath from the tray and leave to cool
Traditionally, the wreath is decorated with glacé cherries or whole white almonds but you could decorate it with little stars, bells and holly leaves made out of marzipan or chocolate.

Variation:

  1. If you have made your own puff pastry:
    • After resting for the last time (after turn 6), divide the pastry into three even pieces by eye and cut one-third off (wrap the largest part back in cling film and put it back into the fridge)
    1. Roll the dough out in one direction (do not roll out the sides) into an elongated rectangle. Remember to flour as you roll when you feel the dough is sticking to your work surface, otherwise the butter will peep out of the dough and your layers will be ruined. Also, if butter does leak out of the dough, then put it back in the fridge
    2. Brush off the excess flour and sprinkle the top with ½ to 1 tablespoon cinnamon or mixed spice
    3. Fold the rectangle into thirds, brushing off the excess flour and sprinkling with cinnamon or mixed spice as you go
      • The pastry will be slightly drier when baked
    4. Wrap the pastry in cling film and let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes
    5. Repeat this one more time
    6. After the (in total) eighth turn, follow the recipe as above for the Christmas wreath
  2. If you use ready-made puff pastry:
    1. Roll the puff pastry out to approx. 1.5 cm thick, 10 cm wide and 64 cm long and straighten the short sides with a knife
    2. (Sprinkle the pastry with 1 tablespoon cinnamon or mixed spice)
    3. Follow the recipe as above for the Christmas wreath
  3. If you use rough-puff pastry:
    1. Mix 1 tablespoon cinnamon or mixed spice in with the flour and make the pastry as usual
    2. Roll out the pastry and follow the recipe as above for the Christmas wreath
Other uses for the almond paste are:
  1. Spread evenly underneath the apples in an apple pie (recipe to follow soon) (also very nice in a pear tart)
  2. Place dots of the paste on top of any fruit pie or tart, this way the paste will become slightly crunchy and caramelised
  3. Almond paste is essential in the making of traditional 'Stollen', a fruit 'bread' eaten at Christmas and Easter in The Netherlands and Germanic countries. I will put up a recipe very soon, as Christmas is only 58 days away, but here is a photo:



As they say in The Netherlands:



Veel plezier en eet smakelijk

Or, in English,

Have fun and enjoy

Saturday 26 October 2013

It's not difficult, it just takes time...

Puff pastry is the queen of doughs. It’s not a difficult one to make, not when you can be patient, when you know some tricks and tips and when you understand the idiosyncrasies of her majesty, the Pâte Feuilletée. 

This dough requires time - time to rest. It requires cold - cold hands, cold working area. It requires a good rolling pin and a little elbow grease. It will consume you for half a day, you need to pay attention to it, but while it is resting in the fridge, you’ll get a rest too and have the chance to tend to other things. And then, you can enjoy the glory of its hundreds of layers, the puff, the rise, the buttery goodness.

Puff pastry is not for the faint-hearted. If you love making doughs, then you’re going to love making this one too. If you’re not one to shy away from a pastry challenge, this one’s for you.

Pâte feuilletée, the French word for puff pastry which translates to layered dough, is made with flour, water and butter and it does not contain any kind of leavening agent.
It is made up of three parts: the basic dough [détrempe], the butter block [beurrage] and the packed dough [pâton] (formed by combining the first two parts). The butter block is incorporated into and dispersed throughout the basic dough through a number of rolls and folds, named turns [tours], and the result is a laminated dough, a dough that has alternating layers of dough and butter pressed together. The layers of butter are those that make the dough 'puff' in the oven.


French Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée)

Below you’ll find useful tips for making puff pastry that will make your life easier. Take care to read through carefully and comprehend them before making the pastry and make sure to refer back to them while making it. The various notes throughout the recipe are terribly important as well.
  • Puff pastry needs cold (cold kitchen, cold work surface, cold hands) and it’s easier and quicker to make puff pastry during the winter rather than in the summer when the temperatures are high. For example, when I make puff pastry in the winter, the dough only needs to stay in the fridge for 30 minutes between each turn but during the summer it needs at least 1 hour. 
  • You need to rest the dough in the fridge for two reasons. The first is for the gluten in the flour to relax, and the second for the butter to chill and set. Both make rolling out the dough easier and you also minimize the risk of tearing the layers and of the butter escaping through them. 
  • The resting times in the recipe apply to winter temperatures. Adjust resting times if you’re making it during the summer or in a warm environment. Also, use your common sense. If you realise your dough is not as cold as it should be and the butter starts to ooze out or break through the layers, then return it to the fridge. 
  • Don’t forget to flour your work surface and dough before rolling it out and don’t neglect brushing off the excess flour when you fold it.
  • The best way to keep your hands cold while handling or rolling out the dough is by washing them under cold water.
  • Puff pastry does not require a lot of hands-on time but because of the resting periods, you need to be available to go in and out of the kitchen at regular intervals. So arrange to make puff pastry when you know you have that time.
Ingredients:
Basic dough
  • 500 gram strong white bread flour 
  • 200 gram unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into small pieces 
  • 10 gram sea salt
  • 15 ml (1 Tbsp) lemon juice, freshly squeezed
  • 200 ml cold tap water 
Butter block 
  • 250 g very cold unsalted butter 
Extra flour (either bread or all-purpose) for sprinkling over work surface and dough

Special equipment: rolling pin (it needs to be long, don’t use a short rolling pin), pastry brush, dough scraper, plastic wrap

Method:
Basic dough
  1. Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl and add the butter
  2. Mix either with your hands or a fork until the mixture resembles coarse meal (breadcrumbs)
  3. Add the water and lemon juice
  4. Mix with your hands until you have a rough dough
  5. Empty it onto a floured surface and knead for a couple of minutes until you have a pliable and smooth dough. Don’t over-work the dough. You should have a dough that’s pliable and that it’s not sticking to your hands; if it’s ever-so-slightly sticky though, don’t alarm yourself, it’s okay
  6. Shape it into a ball and then press to create a 15-16 cm flattened square
  7. Using a blunt knife or a dough scraper, cut a cross halfway through the dough. Wrap it in plastic wrap and place it in your refrigerator for 1 hour
Butter block
  1. Take the cold butter and place it between two large pieces of plastic wrap
  2. Using a rolling pin, beat the butter into a 15-16 cm square, the size of the basic dough
  3. Place the butter block the refrigerator for 1 hour
Note 1: The basic dough and the butter block need to be really cold before you move on to combine them and make the packed dough. They also need to be of almost equal hardness otherwise it will be difficult to incorporate the butter block into the basic dough.

Packed dough
  1. Take the basic dough out of the fridge, unwrap it (keep the plastic wrap to re-use it) and place it on a lightly floured work surface
  2. Dust the basic dough with flour and, using your rolling pin, roll out the four pieces of the cross you made, making sure the centre is not rolled out so a mound remains
  3. Take the butter block out of the fridge, unwrap it and place it in the centre of the basic dough, on top of the mound, and press it gently
  4. Fold each rolled out piece on top of the butter block, making sure it covers it completely and also pinching the basic dough around it so that the butter block is encased properly in it. What you have now is the packed dough
  5. Using your pastry brush, brush off the excess flour from the packed dough, wrap it with plastic wrap (re-use the one you had wrapped the basic dough with) and place it in the fridge for 30 minutes

Turns
From this point on what you need to do is make 6 turns; roll out and fold the dough 6 times in total. The dough needs to rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes between each turn so that the butter solidifies and does not melt inside your dough thus ruining the layers you’re trying to accomplish.

Note 1: Traditionally, classic puff pastry needs to be rolled out and folded 6-8 times but 6 times is the usual.

Note 2: Before you start, keep in mind that you need to act quickly. The more the dough stays out of the fridge, the more the butter melts and the dough softens, making it difficult to roll out. I don’t want to make you panic, just be aware that you need to be quick.


1st turn
  1. Take the packed dough out of the fridge and unwrap it
  2. Lightly flour your work surface and keep the flour at hand because you may need to dust your surface with more flour while you’re rolling out the dough
  3. Dust the top of the packed dough with flour
  4. The best way to roll out the pastry is by first making indentations using the rolling pin, in three places, two always being towards the far edges of the pastry. This will help keep the rectangle shape of the dough but also push and distribute the butter throughout more evenly
  5. Make more indentations between those first ones. It will make rolling out the pastry easier and you won’t need to put much pressure with your hands
  6. Roll the dough out in one direction (do not roll out the sides) into an elongated rectangle with a thickness of 1 cm (approximately 45 cm long and 20-22 cm wide). Remember to flour as you roll when you feel the dough is sticking to your work surface, otherwise the butter will peep out of the dough and your layers will be ruined. Also, if butter does leak out of the dough, then put it back in the fridge
    1. Furthermore, while rolling the dough out, always try to maintain a rectangle and an even shape
  7. Dust the flour off the dough
  8. Fold the rectangle into thirds. Visually, divide the dough into thirds and fold one third over the middle, dust the flour off and then fold the opposite third over, much like you would fold a business letter. Brush off the excess flour, making sure to also brush off the flour from the bottom of the dough, and wrap it in the plastic wrap. Place the dough in the fridge for at least 30 minutes
Note 1: Make sure you dust off the dough every time you fold it, otherwise it will dry out. 
Note 2: Between turns, before rolling out the dough, you need to always scrape the butter and flour off your work surface otherwise the dough will stick to it. Have your scraper always at hand.

Note 3: If you are making puff pastry during the winter and you realize that after one turn your dough is still cold and firm enough, you can do two turns back to back before you return the dough to the fridge. However, do not get carried away and try to do more than two turns at one time, because your dough will most probably tear, you’ll lose your layers and all your hard work will go to waste.

Note 4: If you want to keep track of how many turns you have done, the classic way when making pâte feuilletée, is by marking (the corner of) the dough by pressing with the tip of your finger(s), making as many indentations as turns you have completed. Don’t press too hard though, you don’t want to tear the layers (see photo below).

2nd turn
  1. Take the dough out of the fridge and unwrap it. Lightly flour your work surface and place the dough, seam-side up, with its spine on your left (if you were to unfold the dough, it should open to your left, like how you open a book) and dust the top with flour
  2. Make indentations on the dough just like you did on the previous step and then roll it out again to a 1 cm thick elongated rectangle (just like you did on the previous step)
  3. Continue rolling and folding the dough just like in the 1st turn to complete the 2nd turn
3rd – 6th turn
  1. From this point on, you need to repeat the same exact process 4 more times, completing 6 turns in total (see photo below for all six turns, including how to make the packed dough)

This recipe yields about 1.2 kg of puff pastry, which is a lot, so you can cut it at this point into 2 or 4 pieces, cover them with plastic wrap and keep them in the fridge.

If you want to use the pastry right away, you need to put it in the fridge for 30 minutes after the 6th turn and then roll it out again, but this time more thinly, depending on what you are making. For example, if you want to make a tart, you should roll it out 0.3-0.4 cm thick.

You can keep the puff pastry in the fridge for 4-5 days but I find that you get a better result i.e. a higher puff, when you use it within the first couple of days.

You can also store it in the freezer, wrapped well with plastic wrap, for one month. 

As they say in France:
Apprécier les résultats

Or, in English

Enjoy the results.

Monday 21 October 2013

The countdown has started!


The Righteous Brothers sang that 'Time goes by so slowly'. That might be the case but I cannot believe that it is only sixty-four (64!!!) days till Christmas! For me, the Christmas period starts as soon as All Hallow's Eve has passed. This is only ten days away, so I will be setting up the Christmas tree in just twelve more days (have to wait till the weekend, now don't I?). I love the atmosphere it brings and I can't help but smile when I see a Christmas tree all 'dressed up' and ready for a party.

Part of my love for Christmas is the wonderful food (and treats, lots of treats) and drinks that we so much associate with this time of year (I will contradict myself in a moment, so just bear with me for now). As there are only the two of us, we do not have a big bird and all the trimmings for Christmas: a small bird (such as pheasant or duck) is more than enough. Then again, it doesn't necessarily have to be a bird at all. I would be just as happy with bubble & squeak (good old-fashioned Stamppot) or pancakes. Not very festive? It's not the food and treats that makes the festivity, nor the drinks (or gifts) for that matter, it's the people around you. It is knowing that you are with the people that love you, regardless [or perhaps because] of all your many flaws. (There, self-contradiction over and done.)

Earlier this year I turned thirty-six but I am still as exited as a six-year-old when it comes to Christmas; just the smell of cinnamon, oranges, nutmeg and cloves puts me in the mood to turn up the volume and play 'White Christmas', 'Little Drummer Boy' or 'Petit Papa Noël'. Oh, and before you start: Father Christmas does exist. I know, I have seen his picture...

Now that the evenings are lengthening and the temperature is starting to drop, I am in the mood for heart-warming 'pick-me-ups' and comfort food. As comfort food means something different to each and everyone of us, this comes in a massive variety. For me it is: chicken curry; good old bubble & squeak; chicken chimichanga; pancakes or 'three-in-a-pan'; bread-and-butter pudding; chocolate cake; beef stew (pie); stroganoff; goulash; onion soup. All home-made, all rather stodgy and all even better reheated the next day (except for the pancakes and the chocolate cake but they never last that long anyway).

Noticed that there weren't any drinks in that list? That's because it was a food list... But, for me, there are only two drinks worth mentioning and they are: Advocaat (or eggnog, although Advocaat is much thicker and eaten with a spoon so it's not even really a drink) and Mulled Wine. 

Mulled wine is popular, in one form or another, all over the world and there are as many recipes as there are countries. There are alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions and recipes call for red (or white) wine, port, claret, sake, or fruit juice (or a slightly sweeter beer such as the Belgians produce). The spices used are mainly cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves but you can add peppercorns, mace, juniper berries, cardamom, star anise, or whatever you prefer. Although usually citrus fruit is added, such as orange, clementine or lemon, you can use apple, cranberries or even ginger. The wine is sweetened with either sugar, honey or maple syrup. You can even add a shot of Rum or Cachaça.
My favourite recipe is below (with some variations at the bottom):


Mulled wine

(Not just for Christmas)


Ingredients:

  • 2 bottles of red wine (the cheapest will do perfectly)
  • cinnamon sticks (to taste)
  • cloves (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
  • nutmeg (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
  • star anise (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
  • peel and juice of 1 orange
  • peel and juice of 1 lemon
  • 2 tart apples (such as breaburn or granny smith), thinly sliced
  • 200 gram (soft brown) sugar or 150 millilitre honey/maple syrup
Method:
  1. Add the sugar (or honey/maple syrup) to a pan (make sure to use a pan that is big enough to hold all the ingredients) and add the cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, star anise, orange and lemon peel and the juice and about half a bottle of wine. For ease, I prick the cloves into the orange peel
  2. Bring the wine to the boil, let the sugar dissolve, and boil it to reduce by about half, stirring frequently to make sure nothing burns
  3. Add the rest of the wine and the sliced apple and bring the wine to just below boiling point
  4. Taste the mulled wine to make sure that you have used enough sugar for your taste. If not, add a small amount of sugar (honey/maple syrup) and let dissolve
  5. Keep the wine warm on the lowest possible heat or put it on top of a gas-fire or wood burner (if you have one of those)
Variations:
  • If you do not like red wine, try using white wine instead but leave out the star anise and the orange and lemon juice
    • For a very dramatic effect: try adding some cranberries when you add the apples but make sure that they do not burst as this will spoil the colour
  • If you don't like wine altogether, try using 1 pint of a slightly sweeter beer or ale (scale up if you want to share)
    1. Heat the beer or ale with 1 tablespoon of honey, 2 cinnamon sticks, 4 cloves, 1 teaspoon of nutmeg and a few slices of fresh ginger (optional) until hot but not boiling (this will foam up so make sure to use a big enough pan)
    2. Leave to stand for about 30 minutes to cool down and strain
    3. Re-heat it gently when you are ready for your drink
      • For a richer option: separate 1 egg, discarding the egg white, and beat this with 2 teaspoons of sugar for about 5 minutes until almost white in colour
      • Slowly, whilst whisking, add 2 tablespoons of the hot beer and pour this mixture into the pan (make sure to whisk constantly)
      • Let this heat through for about 5 more minutes and strain (if desired) into glasses (or mugs)
  • For an alcohol-free version, replace the wine with fruit juice such as grape or cranberry juice



Enjoy

Sunday 20 October 2013

'Stealing' recipes

Cookbooks and recipes; I love them. For me, they are a source of inspiration, wonder, disgust (I don't care how much alcohol you pour over liver, it remains liver), anticipation, joy. Funds don't allow me to buy every cookbook I see (how very annoying) but if I find a recipe that I would really love to try, I will quickly write down the ingredients and the outline of how to make it. It is the one reason why I have always got some paper and a pen in my bags.

Even dining out, like we did last year when we were in Scarborough, recipes are never 'safe'. We had been informed, by the owner of the B&B (The Kenton) we were staying at, of a nearby Turkish restaurant called Az. As it was our wedding anniversary, and we both love our food, we decided to give it a try. This year we went back and I just had to try the salad again (???) that I had tasted the previous year. Although in the past I have asked for (and received) the recipes of something I had really enjoyed from the chef, being with my husband and all I decided to just write down the name of the dish and see what I could find on the internet. To my relief and utter enjoyment I found it.

At Az they called it a salad; it is usually eaten as part of Turkish Mezze:

Zeytinyağlı Taze Fasulye

or

Turkish Green Beans


Ingredients:

  • 1 pound of fresh green beans or 1 pack of frozen green beans
  • 1 big onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves of garlic, sliced or chopped (or 2 teaspoons grated/minced garlic)
  • 2 big fresh tomatoes, finely chopped, or 1 tin of (diced) tomatoes
  • 1/4 teaspoon sugar (use more if the tomatoes are too acidic)
  • 1/2 cup olive oil (8 tablespoons)
  • 1/2 cup hot water (8 tablespoons)
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • salt (to taste)
optional
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cumin
  • pepper/ crushed pepper (to taste)
Method:
  1. If you're using fresh green beans: clean and trim the beans to 1 to 1½ inch pieces
  2. Heat the olive oil in a pan and cook the chopped onions and garlic until lightly brown
  3. Add the tomato paste and stir for a minute
  4. Add the beans and stir them until they slightly change colour (about 6-8 minutes)
  5. Add the tomatoes, cook for 5 minutes, then add sugar (cumin and pepper), water, and salt
  6. Cover the pan and cook with low heat until the beans are soft (about 30 minutes with frozen beans - 45 minutes with fresh ones)
Do you have a pressure cooker? Add all the ingredients to the pan and cook for 15 minutes on medium heat.

This is traditionally served cold, but it is also very tasty when eaten warm.

Variations:

  • Try using half-and-half green beans and (thinly) sliced runner beans
  • As a matter of fact, try using a pound of sliced runner beans (instead of the green beans)
  • No green beans (or runner beans)? Try using 5 or 6 finely chopped tomatoes (of your own preference) (skip step 4) and cook until the tomatoes start to fall apart then add 1 or 2 chopped tomatoes and warm through
At home, we had it for our tea with Patlican Salatasi (a Turkish aubergine salad [remind me to put the recipe up]) and Izmir Köfte (Turkish 'meatballs'). As the next day the flavours were even more developed, I enjoyed it at work: I had prepared some plain couscous and spooned over several tablespoons of the 'salad'. Together with some pita bread and crumbled feta cheese; it was delish...

As they say in Turkey:

Tadini çikarmak

or (in English)

Enjoy

Saturday 19 October 2013

Bread, glorious bread! Knead, proving and baking!

When I first started in culinary school, we were told that if we wanted to become a (master)baker or (head)chef, we would have to learn the basics. For cooking that meant learning how to boil (eggs, potatoes...), for baking that meant bread. To this day, nothing beats the feeling of accomplishment when I pull out a golden-crusted loaf of bread; crispy on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside. And then the first slice, still warm from the oven, with nothing but a good smear of real butter: heaven on a plate.

The flours that are most used for bread are white and wholemeal. And both of these flours bring their own characteristics to bread. My preference is wholemeal: slightly nutty and sweet in flavour, with the added bonus of a gorgeous texture. Sometimes mixed with white flour to create a lighter loaf, sometimes (partly) sifted to lose some of the wheat.

Someone, years ago, bought me a bread-maker because that would make my life so much easier (and less messy). I wouldn't have to do all the hard work of kneading dough, letting it proof, kneading again, shaping, rising and (finally) baking. 'You can just chuck it all in, set the timer and, hey-presto, fresh bread'. Although I had my doubts, I tried it, and tried it, and tried it. For me, it never worked: ingredients weren't mixed in well enough, or the bread would be too dense, or the little mixer thingy would be stuck in the loaf. Safe to say, it wound up in the back of a cupboard, never to be looked at again. My hands, a flat surface, a bowl and a set of scales are all I need to create the perfect loaf time and time again.

The most difficult thing about baking bread is the kneading but with some simple hints and tips that becomes as easy as 1, 2, 3. So, here goes:

After you have mixed all the ingredients (recipe below, but this is the same for all bread dough) together in a bowl and brought it together into a ball, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and lightly flour your hands, 
  • Form the dough into a nice, thick package by folding it over onto itself and pressing down, giving it a quarter turn after each fold. Do this several times. If your dough sticks to the counter: gently lift it up and sprinkle some more flour onto the surface before putting your dough down again. Now you are ready to start the actual kneading:
  • Hold the dough along the left side with your left hand
  • Grip the furthest edge with your right hand and gently stretch that part away from you (this is an almost rolling action, with the heel of your hand)
  • Push it down gently to the counter with your palm
  • Pull the edge back on top of the rest of the dough
  • Give the dough a quarter turn and repeat these steps, being careful not to tear the dough as you stretch it. Flour the surface and your hands as and when needed, to prevent sticking.
You'll want to knead vigorously for about eight to ten minutes or until the dough reaches a smooth, elastic texture. This will take longer if you are kneading a big batch of dough or if the dough contains a lot of egg or butter. If your dough looks silky smooth and elastic, test the dough to see if it has been kneaded enough: press on the dough gently with two fingers, if the indentation stays after you take your fingers away you are done kneading.
This YouTube video from +Epicurious gives you a step-by-step guide if you would like to see what to do: 


Wholemeal Cottage Loaf

Ingredients: (enough for 2 loaves)
  • 60 gram (unsalted) butter (plus extra for greasing)
  • 3 tablespoons honey
  • 3 teaspoons dried yeast
  • 1 tablespoon salt (half if you have used salted butter)
  • 625 gram (stone-ground) strong wholemeal bread flour
  • 125 gram strong white bread flour (plus extra for dusting)
  • 400 ml lukewarm water (stone-ground wholemeal flour can vary in its absorbency and you may need more or less flour or water)
Method:
  1. Melt the butter
  2. Mix 1 tablespoon of honey and 4 tablespoons of lukewarm water in a bowl. Sprinkle the yeast on top and leave it for 5 minutes to dissolve, stirring once
  3. Mix the butter, yeast mixture, salt, remaining honey and the rest of the water
  4. Stir in the white flour and half of the wholemeal flour and mix it with your hands
  5. Add the remaining wholemeal flour, 125 gram at a time, mixing after each addition. The dough should be soft and slightly sticky, and start to pull away from the sides of the bowl
  6. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and sprinkle the dough with a bit more flour
  7. Knead the dough for 10 minutes (see above) until it is smooth and elastic
  8. Grease bowl with a bit of butter, put the dough in the bowl and flip it to lightly butter the surface
  9. Cover the bowl with a slightly damp tea towel and leave it in a warm place for an hour to an hour-and-a-half until the dough has doubled in size
  10. Turn the dough out of the bowl and give it a quick knead to bring it back into a ball shape (knocking the dough back)
  11. Cover the dough and let it rest for 5 minutes whilst you grease a baking sheet. After you have let the dough rest, cut it into three equal-sized pieces and cut one of the pieces in half
  12. Cover 1 large and 1 small piece of dough with a slightly damp tea towel whilst shaping the other two pieces:
    1. Shape 1 large piece into a loose ball and put it on the surface
    2. Cup your hands on either side of the dough ball and gently fold the sides in towards the bottom by bringing your hands together, turn the dough and repeat. Do this several times to create a tight ball
    3. Flip the ball, seam-side down, onto the grease baking sheet
    4. Follow step 1, 2 and three with 1 small piece of dough and place this, seam-side down again, on top of the first ball
    5. Using your forefinger, or the handle of a wooden spoon, press through the centre of the dough balls all the way down to the baking sheet
    6. Repeat with the other 2 pieces of dough to form a second loaf
    7. Cover both loaves with a tea towel and leave to rise, in a warm place, for about 45 minutes or until doubled in size
  13. Whilst the loaves are rising, pre-heat the oven to 190ºC (375ºF/Gas 5)
  14. Bake the loaves for 40-45 minutes until well browned
  15. To test if the loaves are completely baked, turn the upside-down and tap the bottom with your knuckles: if the taps sound hollow, your bread is baked. Leave to cool on a wire rack

Enjoy

Saturday 12 October 2013

Breakfast, on the go, please...

Breakfast is supposed to be the most important meal of the day. We get it told from a very young age, we all know it and we all try to have something in the morning. Even if you only eat something at 10 am, after you have downed three espressos to 'get you going'. The most-heard reason for not having a 'sit-down' breakfast is time; 'It takes too long to make', 'I rather have half an hour longer in bed', 'Everything is just soo hectic in the morning'. Me? I need something 'proper' and will get up earlier than necessary to make sure I do. Usually that will just result in some toast with (ginger) preserve or cheese but it could just as easily be a full English, or eggs and soldiers, or porridge: it depends on what takes my fancy.

An entire industry has grown for those of us who do not have the time at home to eat breakfast. McDonald's and Subway, for instance, are very happy with our lack of time in the morning and have a range of products to 'help' us. But, I don't get it; it takes me anywhere from five minutes (toast) to maximum half an hour (full English) to make my breakfast. It would take me much more than that to get myself to either of the two places mentioned (and several others to boot), decide what I want to eat, order, wait for my order and then eat it. Forget about the fact that it has cost me an arm and a leg; it tastes like cardboard, soggy cardboard at that. It always looks so promising on telly and on the big billboards but what you receive is uninspired, flavourless, unhealthy, tough or spongy and has more 'work' done to it than Lolo Ferrari.

So, how about something to spice up your breakfast?

Quick Huevos Rancheros (or Ranch-style Eggs)



Cooking time: 20 minutes
Serves 2 to 4 (depending on your appetite)

Ingredients:

  • olive oil
  • 1/2 medium sized onion, chopped
  • 1 tin (400 gram) whole tomatoes
  • 2 or 3 fresh green chillies (more or less, to taste)
  • (chipotle) chili powder, adobo sauce, ground cumin (all optional)
  • 4 tortillas or wraps
  • butter
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 tablespoons fresh, chopped, coriander (optional)
  • grated cheddar (optional)
Method:

  1. Make the sauce first by softening the onions in a little olive oil in a large frying pan on medium heat. Once translucent, add the tomatoes and the juice the tomatoes are packed in. Break up the tomatoes with your fingers as you put them in the pan. Add chopped green chilies. Add additional chili to taste, either chipotle chili powder, adobo sauce, regular chili powder, or even ground cumin. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to medium, and let simmer while you do the rest of the cooking, stirring occasionally. Reduce to low after it has been simmering for 10 minutes. Add salt to taste if needed. If the sauce is too acidic, add half a teaspoon of sugar.
  2. Prepare the tortillas/wraps. Heat the oven to a warm 50°C, place plates in the oven to warm up. Heat a teaspoon of olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan on medium high, coating the pan with the oil. One by one (or more if your pan is big enough) heat the tortillas/wraps in the pan, a minute or two on each side, until they are heated through, softened, and pockets of air bubble up inside of them. Then remove them and stack them on one of the warming plates in the oven to keep warm while you continue cooking the rest of the tortillas/wraps and the eggs.
  3. Fry the eggs. Using the same pan as was used for the tortillas/wraps, add a little butter to the pan, about two teaspoons for 4 eggs. Heat the pan on medium high heat. Crack 4 eggs into the pan and cook for 3 to 4 minutes for runny yolks, more for firmer eggs.
To serve, put a tortilla/wrap on a plate and spoon on some of the sauce, then a fried egg (or two). Top with more sauce, sprinkle with coriander and/or cheese if desired.

On the go? Place the tortilla/wrap on a piece of tin foil and put the filling on the tortilla/wrap as before but try to keep it more along the middle and fold it up, burrito-style. Wrap it up in the tin foil and off you go.

To make life easier (and the recipe even quicker), you could use a jar of your favourite salsa, gently warmed up in a small sauce pan.

Fancy a bit of a difference?
  • Try adding some re-fried beans, some soured cream or some finely sliced avocado (or a combination).
Or, if you fancy something 'meatier':
  • Try adding some crispy fried bacon; at the end of step 2: fry the bacon 'till crispy in the same frying pan you used for the tortillas/wraps and place in the oven to keep warm. Continue with step 3.
Enjoy, and do let me know how you get on.

Sunday 6 October 2013

Jack of all trades...

Earlier this year, I started this blog with the intention of writing regularly (at least once a week) about the things that occupy my mind, the things that I am most passionate about. So far, I've written seven posts (not nearly as much as I intended to do...) that were all about politics and the NHS. Don't get me wrong; they are important issues and I am very passionate about the NHS but it is not what I am most passionate about.


Children are often asked what they want to be when they grow up. Depending on their age, most children will answer something along the lines of mommy, policeman, fire fighter, dancer, teacher... My answer? That went from: 'I don't know' to micro-biologist (until I found out that you need to be very good at physics) to archaeologist to 'I don't know' to chef to baker and back to 'I don't know'. There were several other options in between but those are the ones that stick out most. Children eventually decide on one or the other, go to school, get their qualification and don't look back. By the time I reached sixteen, I decided that school just wasn't for me and I started work (not advisable) thinking I would figure it all out that way.

Work encompassed everything from working in the local brewery, the pub and various restaurants, to working for a poultry factory, major manufacturing company, construction company, fire safety company. The type of work I did was just as varied: planner (from routes to events to staff), cleaner, secretary, administrator, baker, (pastry)chef, line worker. After twenty years, this has taught me a few things:


1) it is easier to get a nice job if you have qualifications or plenty of work experience,
2) I am a lousy employee (I tell my manager when they are wrong about something,
3) the only job worth doing is the one you enjoy or are passionate about, and
4) I still don't know what I want to be when I grow up

The one thing I enjoyed more than anything else was cooking and baking. Even as a young kid I would cook and bake (with or without the help of recipes) and my size will attest that food is my biggest passion. And so,
thirty (or so) years after that dreaded question I can finally say: 'When I grow up I want to open up my own food place. Not a restaurant or a bakery, but more along the lines of a small bistro. A little place where people can come for good, honest food. All home/hand-made and nothing frozen. And it has to be everything from the best burger ever to fresh seafood, and toasties and fresh baked goods such as scones and hearty steak pie.'




That is what my husband (a former trained chef and butcher) and I will be working towards; enough money to buy a little place on the Yorkshire coast where we can start for ourselves.

For the blog it means a shift in the kind of articles I have written; from politics and the NHS to the one thing that makes my heart race and my mouth water: food, glorious food. The next posts will be all about my favourite food and recipes. I hope you will like them as much as I do.