Showing posts with label stock. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stock. Show all posts

Saturday, 19 July 2014

Back to the Past

One of my favourite things to do on a cold, but dry, crisp winters day is to go out for a walk in the woods. The best thing about it is, probably, coming back home into the warmth and wrapping myself in a blanket on the sofa and my hands around a steaming bowl of fresh soup. But even now in summer, with temperatures soaring, I do like a bowl of soup. Fair enough, the bowl of soup contains different ingredients but the principle is the same: stock, vegetables, protein, starch. Perhaps a noodle soup with ginger, spring onions, bean sprouts, chili and chicken. Or maybe a chilled pea soup with lovage and creme fraiche (I know, mom, who ever thought I would eat pea soup...) or a light fish soup with haddock and sweet corn.

What ever soup it is I am making, I do prefer to make a soup with homemade stock. Using a stock cube might seem a like good, quick and easy option but I find they usually lack flavour and just add a lot of salt. Of course, there is something to be said for low-sodium, free-range stock cubes but they are more often than not very expensive.

It used to be common for people to make their own stocks but these days people think it is difficult and time-consuming. But it doesn't have to be. In principle, making your own stock is not more difficult than bringing a pan of water to the boil and letting it simmer and not more time-consuming than cooking your average meal. The benefit of making a big pan of stock is that you can freeze it. It does lose some of its taste but not massively so and if you reduce the stock to concentrate the flavour it is actually a very handy thing to have in the freezer. Besides, stock will last three to four days in the fridge, after which time you can bring it back to the boil and keep it for another 3-4 days, practically indefinitely.

There are various options for stock but the two main categories are: Fond Blanc (white stock) and Fond Brun (brown stock). For white stock you use raw bones and for brown stock you use... You guessed it, roasted bones.  Chicken bones are mainly used for white stock and veal or beef bones are mainly used for brown stock but Fish and Vegetable stock are also white stocks. (Bones,) vegetables and water in a pan + simmering = stock. The vegetables you use for making stock is called mirepoix and consists (usually) of onion, leeks, carrot and celery but for a white stock you would mainly use the white parts of vegetables.

The most time consuming of all the various options for stock is brown stock as the bones need roasting and are then simmered for several hours to get the deep brown colour. The quickest to make are fish and vegetable stock as they only need about 20-25 minutes. 
Brown Stock
Ingredients:

  • 500 gram beef of veal bones
  • Mirepoix
    • 2 chopped carrots
    • 2 diced onions
    • 2 chopped celery sticks
  • 1 tablespoons tomato paste
  • Enough water to cover the bones
  • Bouquet Garni (herbs and spices tied in a cloth for ease of use)
    • Dried thyme
    • Parsley stems
    • Bayleaf
    • Peppercorns
    • Cloves
Method:

  1. Preheat oven to 200°C
  2. Place the bones in a heavy bottomed roasting pan. Drizzle them with a bit of vegetable oil if you like
  3. Roast the bones for about half an hour
  4. Add the mirepoix to the roasting pan and continue roasting for another half an hour
    • Toward the end of the roasting, add 1 tablespoon of tomato paste or dilute the paste with a little water and brush the bones thinly with this before you start roasting them
  5. When the bones are thoroughly browned, remove the roasting pan from the oven and transfer the bones to a heavy-bottomed stockpot
  6. Add enough cold water to the pot to completely cover the bones, about 1 litre per 500 gram bones
  7. Bring the pot to a boil, then immediately lower the heat to a simmer
  8. Skim off the scum that rises to the surface with a slotted spoon
  9. Add the roasted mirepoix to the pot along with the Bouquet Garni; tie the sachet string to the stockpot handle for easy retrieval later
  10. Continue to simmer the stock and skim the impurities that rise to the surface
    • Liquid will evaporate, so make sure there's always enough water to cover the bones
  11. After anywhere from 4 to 6 hours, once the stock has developed a rich brown colour, remove the pot from the heat
  12. Strain the stock through a sieve lined with a few layers of cheesecloth. Cool the stock quickly, using an ice bath if necessary
Some hints and tips when making brown stock:
  • The best bones to use for making stock are ones with a lot of cartilage, such as the so-called "knuckle" bones in the various leg joints. The bones of younger animals also have more cartilage, which is why veal bones are so desirable
  • Always start with cold water when making stock. It will help extract more collagen from the bones, which will produce a stock with more body
  • Don't let the stock boil, but rather keep it at a gentle simmer with bubbles just breaking the surface. Also, don't stir the stock while it simmers. Just let it do its thing. All you need to worry about is skimming the scum off the top, and possibly adding more water if the liquid level drops too low
Glace de Viande
Glace de Viande is the fancy name for brown stock that has been reduced to an almost syrupy consistency and is used to fortify sauces. A spoonful of glace de viande is a great way to add flavour to other dishes. It stores well in the freezer, so in a pinch you can add water and turn the glace back into stock again.
Here's how to make it:

  1. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the stock (see above) to a boil and then lower the heat to medium
    • As the stock simmers, you may see scum or other impurities rise to the surface. Skim these impurities off with a ladle
  2. Once the stock has reduced by a little over half, pour it through a mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a smaller pot
  3. Lower the heat a bit and continue reducing, skimming as needed
  4. The glace is finished when the liquid has reduced by about three fourths and the glace is thick and syrupy
    • When you stir it, the glaze should coat the back of your spoon
  5. Let the glace cool, transfer it to a container with a lid and refrigerate or freeze
It might seem all a bit daunting, but I promise it is well worth having stock to hand like this. Whether it is to make a soup or light broth, a sauce or as a base for a stew, stock is versatile. Whatever you use your stock for:
Enjoy!

Sunday, 30 March 2014

Come dine with...

Do you know that TV show Come Dine With Me? There are versions the world over with (slightly) different titles (Jogo de Panelas; Cookware's Game - Smaken Verschillen; Tastes Differ - Bez servítky; Without a napkin - Klokka åtte hos meg; Eight O'clock At My Place - Das Perfekte Dinner; The Perfect Dinner - Un Dîner Presque Parfait; An Almost Perfect Dinner) but the format is the same: a group of people, that don't know each other, 'fight it out' to be the best dinner party host.
I love watching it; clashing personalities, finding common grounds, things go wrong, things go right. It's everything a normal dinner party is for most of us but with the added pressure of TV cameras in your face and being scored by people that know nothing about you.

There is usually a mix of 'alpha-male', (slightly) ditzy woman, comedian, over-confident, alternative, vegetarian, oddball, downright strange, over-competitive, 'foodie', wine buff. The participants are from all walks of life and all have different views on life. The show does not discriminate so a vegetarian can find themselves at the dinner table with a beef-eater, a proper 'macho-man' can find himself surrounded by people that are LGBT, 'Labour' sits at the table with 'Conservative', different cultures are often together at the same table.

It is this combination of people, their often (very) different views, and very different characteristics that I find most fascinating. And it is good to see that people, by the end of their 'journey', can find acceptance and even common grounds. What I find most amusing though is the confidence that some people show. No matter how misguided, misplaced or misjudged this might be. Hilarious is the moment where the most confident person (the one that has been stating all week that they are the best, are top of the leaderboard and that no one can touch - you know the one; the one we all love to hate) finds out that out of five contestants they have come fifth...


At least once a week the, what seems to be, obligatory Potato Dauphinoise is being prepared. Thin slices of potato, cooked in cream with garlic. Brilliant when one of the guests is a health fanatic, same-old-same-old when everybody drinks cream in their coffee... I was utterly surprised when I saw someone do Hasselback potatoes. Large potatoes sliced nearly all the way through, baked in the oven with some butter, grated cheese and breadcrumbs. A dish named after a restaurant in Stockholm, called Hasselbacken, where the dish was served first.

Potatoes lend themselves very well to all kinds of dishes; from boiled (served with gravy) to mash, from Hasselback to Dauphinoise, from potato salad to fries. My favourite way (of the moment) to prepare potatoes is by cooking them in the oven in stock, Boulangère Potatoes. The name comes from the French word for baker. After bakers had baked the bread for the day, locals would use the cooling ovens to cook their potatoes. Give them a try, it is an easy recipe and perfect for a dinner party.

-
Ingredients:

  • 1 large potato per person
  • 500 millilitre (veal or lamb) stock
  • 1 or 2 onions (optional)
  • salt and pepper to season
  • 20 gram butter
Method:
  1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC
  2. Clean the potatoes, I leave the skin on, and slice thinly (a mandolin is ideal but be careful as the blade is incredibly sharp and accidents are easy)
  3. Use some of the butter to grease an ovenproof dish and layer the potatoes
    • If you are using onions:
      • halve the onions and slice them thinly
      • caramelise them in a heavy based frying pan in a little butter until golden brown
      • add some of the onions on top of each layer of potato
  4. Pour in the stock, I use a stock cube as a quick and easy cheat but you can make your own stock if you want to
  5. Cover the potatoes with tinfoil and place in the centre of the oven to bake for 1 to 1½ hours
  6. Take the foil off the dish and dot the remaining butter on top and place back into the oven for 10 minutes to crisp the top
Dishes don't come much easier than that!

As they say in France
Bon Appetit

Sunday, 1 December 2013

We can all use them, from time to time

Cookery shows on TV; you either love 'em or hate 'em. On the whole, I love them. It gives me great ideas for recipes, although I never follow them to the letter. As with all my recipes, they get adjusted to my own preferences and availability of ingredients. At the same time, however, there is something that thoroughly annoys me about them. Cookery shows want to help people cook certain food, eat better, waste less, eat healthier and so on. And so they fill you up with recipes and how to cook the dishes. That's all fine by me, what annoys me is that they don't tell you the numerous amount of hints, tips and tricks they have (there are some exceptions, but these just confirm the rule). And believe me when I say, chefs have practically a trick for everything they do. From chopping veg to juicing fruit, from rolling out pastry to seasoning food. And for everything in between...

Some of these hints, tips and tricks are being taught in college but mostly they are picked up when working in a professional kitchen. And I am going to share what I know with you, so 'Keep calm and Be a Chef'. That last part is a bit of a lie, by the way. As was pointed out to me by my husband... More accurately would be 'keep confidence and be a chef'. Which brings me to the best tip I can ever give: 'keep calm and hire a chef'...

I will add to the list below on occasion, so if ever you are stuck, come back here and see if I have a hint, tip or trick ready for you. Or leave a question in the comment section and I will come back to you. Any hints, tips and tricks you have are more than welcome too.


Hints, Tips & Tricks
Pastry:
  1. The easiest way of rolling out shortcrust pastry is, probably, to roll it out between baking paper:
    • This is great because you avoid using flour. Any additional flour will make your pastry taste less buttery, and most importantly there's no need to clean up any floury mess afterwards. Also, if you happen to be making pastry on a hot day and it's becoming too soft to roll out, you can simply slide the pastry into the fridge for 10 minutes to rest instead of having to scrape the soft pastry off the work surface. The golden rule when making pastry is to handle it as little as possible, otherwise it goes rubbery and tough. Using the baking-paper tip will certainly help achieve the perfect pastry
    1. Cut off a piece of baking paper and place this on your work top
    2. Place the pastry on top and cover with a second piece of baking paper
    3. Roll the pastry out to the required size and preferred thickness
      • Don't have baking paper? Cling film works equally well but sticks slightly more to the pastry
      • Another great thing about this is that it makes lining a baking tin so much easier:
        1. Peel of the top layer of the baking paper and lift the pastry (with the remaining bottom piece of baking paper underneath) onto 1 hand
        2. Flip the sheet over, on top of the prepared baking tin (so that the pastry is inside the tin)
        3. Gently ease the pastry into all the nooks and crannies (with the paper still on top)
        4. Gently peel of the remaining paper and bake or fill as normal
Tomato-based sauces and soups:
  1. Tinned tomatoes
    • Using tinned tomatoes for a soup or sauce? Try adding a pinch of sugar to take away the acidic flavour. Use the sugar as a seasoning, so don't go overboard...
  2. Fresh tomatoes
    • Need to peel and finely chop fresh tomatoes?
      1. Cut a tomato in half
      2. Grate the flesh through the large holes of a vegetable grater until you get to the skin (hold on to the skin to keep it intact before discarding it)
Seasoning:
  1. The reason most restaurant food tastes better is the correct use of seasoning. Chefs use salt, pepper and spices throughout the cooking process and season at every stage. Jacob Kenedy, Chef patron of Bocca di Lupo in Soho, once said: 'To live a long life, use less salt. To live a happy one, use more. Salt is the West's MSG – it gives food more flavour. "Correct" seasoning, to a chef, is as much salt as you can possibly get into the dish without it tasting too salty.'
    • To achieve this, add (especially) salt at the beginning of the cooking process and then at every next step (with the exception of stocks destined for reduction). Make sure to taste before you add salt and add only a pinch at a time, tasting as you go 
      • If you happen to over-season, you can try to bulk the dish out by adding something (barley to a soup, for instance), or to balance the salt with acid (a squeeze of lemon or dash of vinegar), or to kill it with fat (fat mutes flavours – so add butter or oil).
Tenderise (tough) meat:
  1. To tenderise meat you can bash away at it with a 'meat tenderiser' or cover the meat with a piece of cling film and bash it with a heavy-based pan (brilliant if you want to work out some frustration, but you need to be careful as you don't want to wind up with pulp).
  2. There is another option. You can use acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, or kachri powder to tenderise meat. However, you should use either option sparingly, as it can leave a slight tangy taste if used excessively.
Juicing fruit:
  1. To get the most juice out of oranges, lemons and limes, try warming them up slightly:
    • Place the fruit in direct sunlight for half an hour or stick them in the microwave for 5 seconds on high
Stock:
  1. Stocks are great to have on hand as they can be used as the base for soups, sauces and gravy. There is nothing wrong with using a stock cube but making your own needn't be difficult:
    • Take lots of kitchen vegetable trim (celery, fennel tops, onion, garlic, carrot peelings) and place in a pot with all your bones
    • Cover with water, then cling film and tin foil it
    • Cook overnight at 140°C in the oven or cook on top of the stove for at least 3 hours
  2. Want a clear stock?
    • By cooking it in the oven (as above) all the impurities, that you would usually remove through skimming, stick to the bottom and sides of the pot
    • If you have cooked the stock on top of the stove things become slightly more laborious but not more difficult:
      1. When you put the pan on the heat, avoid boiling the liquid and do not stir (if you can). If you do have to stir, use a balloon whisk and try not to disturb the ingredients too much
      2. During the cooking process, skim off the foam that forms on top (with a slotted spoon)
      3. Leave the stock to cool completely: the top of the stock will look clear as all the heavier particles sink to the bottom of the pan (this will happen quicker if you haven't stirred)
      4. Ladle the clear liquid gently into a jug or a clean saucepan without disturbing the sediment
      5. Chill it until any fat has set into solid clumps
      6. Remove as much fat as possible
      7. Pour your stock into a large, shallow freezer safe container
      8. Line a perforated tray, flat based colander, drum sieve, or other drainage utensil that has a flat base with cheesecloth or a clean fine-weave tea-towel or dishcloth (ideally, the container that you freeze the stock in should fit into the sieve or perforated tray lying flat)
      9. Place this onto another catchment container underneath (the container underneath the sieve or tray should be wide and deep enough to gather the fluid without spillage)
      10. Remove your stock ice block from its original container and place into the lined drainage tray or sieve
      11. Cover with cling film and put aside, preferably in the fridge overnight if you have time
      12. Allow the block to melt and the stock will filter out, leaving ice and the fine particles that would make it cloudy in the cloth
        • For an even richer stock, follow from step 7 onwards for a second time
  3. Freeze stock into an ice-cube tray. Whenever you need to add a bit more flavour to a soup, sauce or gravy, take out an ice-cube and add it to the pan. Let it dissolve, give it a quick stir and taste to make sure the seasoning is 'just perfect'
Ginger:
  1. The easiest way to peel ginger is to use a teaspoon. This might sound silly but if you use the edge of the spoon (like with a knife) you can scrape the skin off the ginger very thinly without having to cut off all the knobbly bits (this saves you loads of time and ginger)
Spices:
  1. If you, like me, use a lot of spices, it is cheaper to buy whole spices and grind them yourself as and when you need them. The flavour of the spice stays very vibrant for a longer time then with ground spices and you can crush just the amount that you need. The best way to grind them is the old-fashioned way; with pestle and mortar.
  2. For the best flavour in your dish, add a ground spice at the end of cooking (to give it a little lift) or you can add them in whole at the beginning. Or toast ground spices in a dry frying pan until they become fragrant before you add the rest of your ingredients (make sure not to burn the spices as they will become very bitter)
I hope these hints, tips and tricks will come in useful. Let me know how you get on...

But most of all, no matter what you are making:
Enjoy