Nothing too posh, please

As I wasn't born in the UK, I missed out on some wonderful foods growing up. For instance crumpets and potato cakes but also spam fritters, treacle tart and 'fly pie'. And I have had to do without toad-in-the-hole, Yorkshire puddings and the illustrious dish called wigwams (a pile of cheese-y mash with three sausages (placed upright around the mash to form a teepee) with a 'moat' of baked beans in tomato sauce). Life just isn't fair sometimes...

What I did grow up with though are frikandellen, kroketten and stamppot. The Dutch (and Belgians) have a love for the deep-fat fryer, although I had never even heard of a deep fried mars bar and have yet to taste this concoction... We do, however, deep fry cheese souffles (although they are not the kind that you would normally bake in the oven) and egg fried rice. When people ask me if I miss anything from back there, frikandel and kaassoufflé are my first answers. But that is only because I still haven't been able to find a good recipe to make them at home.

Stamppot (which is basically a type of bubble and squeak) is something that I make quite regularly and my husband loves it, especially when made with Brussels sprouts or curly kale. But it's kroketten that I got him hooked on. The French call them croquettes, very posh for something very simple. Meat, poultry, vegetables, cheese or even fish in a very thick white or brown sauce (Béchamel, Velouté or Espagnole) encased in breadcrumbs, fried until golden and crispy.

There are some conflicting stories going round as to where the kroket originates but clear is that it was used as a way of getting rid of leftovers and were often served as a starter to a meal. Later they also became popular at parties in the form of golf ball sized bites, called bitterbal. The base for the kroket is always the same; a very thick 'ragout' made of either Béchamel, Velouté or Espagnole and a filling. The filling itself, as you can imagine, can be as diverse as you want it to be. This is perfect as you can adjust the filling to likes and dislikes but also in regards of cultural, religious or self-imposed dietary restrictions.

Beef Kroketten

Ingredients:

• 600 gram cooked beef (either from making stock or use the beef from your favourite beef stew)
• 1 onion, chopped
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 4 tablespoons flour
• ½ liter stock or milk
• pepper,salt, mace, nutmeg to taste
• flour
• eggs or egg whites
• (toasted) breadcrumbs
• Oil (or fat such as lard) for frying

Method:

Chop the meat very finely or pull apart with two forks

• I prefer to use homemade beef stew that I cook for so long (3-4 hours) that the beef falls apart when pressed with a fork or spoon
1. Melt the butter on medium heat and add the flour as soon as the butter stops foaming
2. Stir the flour and butter on medium heat until it turns a golden colour (3-4 minutes) (this makes a roux) and add the stock or milk
• I prefer to use the liquid that is left over from the beef stew, with some water or stock added to make up the volume
3. Whisk the sauce for about 2-3 minutes to cook out the flour and add the spices and the beef (this makes a ragout)
4. Leave the ragout to cool completely
• To make the kroketten it is easiest to do so when the ragout is very cold so I tend to make the ragout at least a day in advance
• You can keep the ragout in the fridge until needed but can also be frozen for a later date
5. Once you are ready to make the kroketten, prepare three bowls (or soup plates):
1. (seasoned) flour
2. lightly beaten eggs or egg whites
3. breadcrumbs
6. Lightly flour your hands and form the ragout into sticks of about 10 by 3 cm
• If necessary, return the formed kroketten to the fridge as it is easier to bread them when they are cold
7. Cover each kroket in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs making sure to cover the kroketten completely otherwise the ragout could leak out during the deep fat frying
• Try using one hand for the flour and breadcrumb and the other hand for the egg
• You can repeat this step for a thicker, crispier crust and to ensure that the kroketten won't leak during frying
8. Place the breaded kroketten in the fridge for about 30 minutes to firm up
9. Heat the fat to about 180^oC
10. Fry the kroketten, in batches, for about 4 minutes until golden brown
11. Remove the kroketten from the pan onto some paper towels to drain any excess fat

The list of fillings you can use is only limited to your own preferences and imagination but here are some ideas:

Meat kroketten: You can use any soup meat (beef, chicken) but also veal or lamb, and lovely kroketten are made with sweetbreads.
Cheese kroketten: use milk in making the roux, replace the meat with cheese and season to taste with white pepper, nutmeg and parsley. I like to grate about 400 gram of the cheese into the sauce before cooling and add the leftover cheese once cold. You can use almost any cheese you like (Gouda, Stilton, Roquefort, Cheddar), but I find that very old or dry cheeses like Parmigiana Reggiano or old Pecorino are better when you combine them with other cheeses.
Fish kroketten: Use fish stock, and herbs like dill or chives.
Game kroketten: For these you use a brown roux: Let the butter colour slightly more before adding flour, keep the fire higher than when making a blond roux, cook the butter/flour paste a little longer. Use more butter/flour than for a blond roux, 70 gram each for a half litre of liquid. Use good (game) stock for the sauce.
Vegetable kroketten: Make a blond roux with milk or vegetable stock, add blanched vegetables like asparagus, broccoli, peas). You can add some cheese and herbs to taste. Mushroom kroketten are better with a ragout made with meat stock (or the liquid that dried mushrooms have been steeped in).

Have fun making your own variations and enjoy with your choice of condiment; mine is very traditional: mustard.

As they say in The Netherlands

Eet smakelijk

Or, in just plain old English

Enjoy

MIY

Whenever in the past I wanted to lose weight I was told to stop eating cheese because it contains too much fat. A better alternative would be low-fat cheese, if I was really opposed to cutting cheese out of my diet all together. But, that means eating processed food (remember my article from the third of April?) and eating a lot more of it to at least give the idea of eating something full of flavour. The problem, you see, is that to remove fat from cheese it requires a lot of work and in the process you lose texture and flavour. I tried it. I loathed it. And went back to proper, I-don't-care-if-it-is-bad-for-your-health-and-waistline, full-fat cheese. And then I wrote the article on processed foods...

A dear friend of mine asked me about cutting processed foods as much as possible out of my diet. More precisely, she asked me if I had finally given up on cheese as this is a processed food as well, and one that is not easy to make yourself... Not a fair question, I thought, as life would be not worth living without cheese (in my humble opinion). She had a point though, making cheese at home isn't the easiest as you need all kinds of equipment, the right environment and rennet (a complex of enzymes found in the stomach of baby mammals that allows them to process mother's milk, which is used to coagulate, or thicken, milk during the cheesemaking process). But, I thought, it wouldn't be impossible. After all, it has been done for millennia... Even the ancient Egyptians had tomb murals depicting the activity. And, until the industrialisation, cheese has been made in homes and farms all over Europe and the Middle-East.

And then I remembered a venture in making my own cheese several years ago. I love cheese on all of its guises; from very young through to 3-year-matured, from cheddars to blues, from soft to hard, and everything in between (except low-fat). But one of my favourites has got to be the herbal fresh cheeses such as Boursin. They are, however, extremely expensive for what they are (anywhere from £4 to £18 per kilo); thickened milk with herbs... I love these kind of cheeses because of their many uses: be it on toast or crackers, as a dollop in soups, as a quick stir-in-sauce for pasta. Years ago I had a blast at making it myself. I drained thickset yoghurt overnight and stirred in salt, herbs and garlic. It worked a treat but was slightly more sour than the well-known fresh cheeses and not everyone was as enamoured with it as I was. The result was that I stopped making it. Until now, that is. Because I have an easy recipe to make one kilogram of fresh cheese for less than £2... And that will taste like the real deal... And that you can adapt to your own preferences and requirements... Life is sweeeeeeet!!!

Fresh Cream Cheese

Ingredients:

• 2 litre whole milk (unpasteurised would be best, so if you know a local farmer...)
• juice of 1 lemon, or little splash of a neutral vinegar or apple cider vinegar
• 200 gram buttermilk

Method:

1. Pour the milk into a large enough pan and heat slowly on low heat
2. Slowly stir the milk until little bubbles appear at the sides of the pan, making sure the milk doesn't boil
3. Turn off the heat and pour the lemon juice or vinegar and the buttermilk into the milk
4. Leave the milk for about ten minutes

• the milk will start to separate into curds and whey
5. Pour the whey and curds into a sieve, lined with a tea towel and placed inside a bowl to catch the whey
6. Leave the curds to stand for half an hour until they whey has drained off and only the curds are left
7. Pick up the four corners of the tea towel and tie them together of the handle of a wooden spoon
8. Place the tea towel with the cheese into a high bowl (for instance a large mixing bowl or the jug of the blender) making sure the towel does not touch the bottom of the bowl and let the wooden spoon rest on the rim
9. Leave this to stand for several hours for all the remaining liquid to drain out of the curds
10. Remove the cheese from the tea towel and place in a dry tea towel
11. Place the cheese into a bowl and leave to rest in the fridge, overnight would be best
12. Remove the tea towel and serve

Herb cream cheese

Ingredients:

• One recipe of cream cheese, as above
• salt and pepper to taste
• 3 tablespoons fresh herbs, chopped finely, to your taste
• 4 cloves of garlic
• a drop or two of olive oil
• a drop of honey

Method:

From step 6 above

1. Add a little salt and pepper, 3 tablespoons of finely chopped herbs, 4 cloves of minced or pureed garlic, a couple of drops of olive oil and honey and stir this into the curds 
• Be careful with the amount of salt you add: start with a little and keep tasting to make sure the flavour is to your liking
• The more garlic you add, the more pungent the flavour (and smell) will be so add this to your liking, or leave it out
2. Follow from step 7 above

As stated earlier, you can make this with Greek yoghurt: Spoon 1 tub of yoghurt into a tea towel and follow from step 7 above, adding the ingredients after it has been left to drain overnight. You will need a little more olive oil because this has a risk of becoming slightly too dry otherwise.

For those who are lactose intolerant, you could use sheeps or goats milk or kefir in much the same ways as above.

As you Make It Yourself, you can change the flavours of the cheese to your liking, requirements and desires. Try for instance:

• Smoked Paprika and very finely chopped Shallots
• Honey and Thyme
• Herbes de Provence and Garlic
• Lemon and Chives (can only be kept for a day or two)
• Coriander and very finely chopped Green Peppers
• Chilli Pepper and Horseradish
• Mint and Rosemary
• Anchovy, Olives and Capers (leave out the salt)
• Garlic and Parsley
• Cinnamon and grated Apple (can only be kept for a day but is perfect on fresh toast)
• Ginger, Coriander and Black Pepper
• Carrot Cake (grated carrot, chopped walnuts and raisins)
• Wild Garlic and Thyme Flowers

The list is practically endless (which is perfect as there are so many uses for cream cheese) and is only limited by your own imagination. I do type that sentence a lot but that is the principle of cooking: You can make anything your imagination lets you.

So, next time you are invited for a dinner party and are trying to think of what to bring for the host but don't want to bring the obligatory bottle of wine, bring them some MIY cream cheese... Use half the recipe, place the cheese (when you come to step 10) inside the tea towel into a nice little bowl, leave it to rest overnight, remove the tea towel and place the cheese back into the bowl and press it gently down with the back of a spoon. Cover the bowl with some clingfilm, a nice piece of checkered cloth and tie with a ribbon...

Now all I need to do is think of something to eat with my cream cheese, because I've been told I am no longer allowed to just use my fingers...

Enjoy

The base is red.

Sauces are so important in our meals; they provide a different consistency, flavour, colour and smell. And I wanted to share with you some knowledge about these sauces, how to make them, their variations and what to eat them with. As there are five 'mother' sauces and more 'small' sauces than I care to count this was going to be quite a project. But one I really wanted to do as I cannot imagine life without some of these wonderful concoctions. Don't get me wrong; I haven't written down all the sauces in the world, not even all the sauces in one single 'cuisine'. What I have done was provide you, I hope, with the most used sauces in most restaurants, varieties are created on an ongoing basis and with the five mother sauces now in your possession, I am sure that you yourself will be able to add to the ever-growing list.

I started this project five days ago with an article on the first of the five mother sauces, Sauce Béchamel or white sauce. A day later I wrote about the second of the mother sauces, Sauce Velouté. Two days ago I was all about the third mother sauce; Sauce Espagnole. Yesterday was devoted to the fourth mother sauce; Sauce Hollandaise. And today I finally come to the last of the mother sauces; Sauce Tomate. You will already have guessed the main ingredient in this sauce; tomatoes. Although we recognise tomato sauce on pasta and pizza, there are a few more steps involved in this mother sauce to create its full flavour.

First you have to render salt pork and then fry some aromatic vegetables. Then you add tomatoes, stock and a ham bone, and simmer it in the oven for a couple of hours. Cooking the sauce in the oven helps to heat it evenly and there is a limited chance of burning... The sauce can be thickened with roux, as was done traditionally, but the tomatoes will act as a thickening agent themselves when cooked long enough (the same as with jams and chutneys). The original recipe contains salt pork, a ham bone and chicken or veal stock but you can leave out the bone, replace the salt pork with 60 millilitre olive oil and replace the stock with vegetable stock.

Sauce Tomate

Ingredients:

• 60 gram diced salt pork
• 500 gram diced onion
• 240 gram diced carrot
• 240 gram dice celery sticks
• 1 minced clove of garlic
• 800 gram (2 cans) crushed or chopped tomatoes, including the liquid
• 950 millilitre veal or chicken stock
• 1 ham bone
• Salt and sugar to taste
• Herb sachet
• 1 bay leaf
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme
• 4 fresh parsley stems
• 8-10 crushed black peppercorns

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 150°C
2. Tie the sachet ingredients into a cheesecloth sack using a piece of kitchen twine
3. In a heavy, oven-safe casserole pan, render the salt pork over low heat until the fat liquefies (or heat up olive oil)
4. Add the carrots, celery, onions and garlic and fry for a few minutes until the onion is translucent but not brown
5. Add the tomatoes, the ham bone, the stock and the sachet, bring to a boil, cover, and transfer the pot to the oven. Simmer in the oven, partially covered, for two hours
6. Remove the pan from the oven and remove the sachet and ham bone and blend the sauce in a blender or food processor until smooth, working in batches if necessary
7. Season to taste with salt and a small amount of sugar — just enough to cut the acidity of the tomatoes
• If you are not serving the sauce right away, keep it covered and warm until you're ready to use it

The recipes below are all based on half the amount of sauce of the recipe above.

Spanish Sauce
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 250 gram chopped onions, 125 gram chopped green pepper and 1 minced clove of garlic until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 250 gram sliced mushrooms and continue to fry until the mushrooms are soft. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, bring to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and Tabasco and serve.

Sauce Creole 
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 200 gram chopped onions, 125 gram chopped green pepper, 200 gram chopped celery and 1 minced clove of garlic until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, 1 bay leaf, ½ teaspoon dried oregano and the zest of 1 lemon. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, season with salt, pepper and cayenne pepper (to taste) and serve.

Portuguese Sauce
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 200 gram chopped onions until they're translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 475 gram peeled, deseeded and finely chopped tomatoes (concassé) and 1 minced clove of garlic and continue to fry until the tomatoes are soft, about 10 minutes. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, bring to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Sauce Provençale
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 200 gram chopped onions until they're translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 475 gram peeled, deseeded and finely chopped tomatoes (concassé), 1 minced clove of garlic and 2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence. Continue to fry until the tomatoes are soft, about 10 minutes. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, 2 tablespoons capers and 2 tablespoons chopped black olives, bring to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

The mother sauce and its four small sauces are each perfect with pasta and the mother sauce itself can also be used as the base for pizzas. Sauce Provençale is perfect with grilled chicken and fish but any of the sauces can take the place of another: it is all up to your own taste and preference.

This is the last article about the five mother sauces; I hope they will be helpful, whether you have been cooking for years or are just starting to cook. Each of the sauces can be adapted to your own tastes and preferences and most of them can be adapted for special diets but, let's face it, a sauce will always be to enrich a meal so making them fat free is nigh on impossible: you need the fat for flavour and texture.

Sauce Espagnole and Sauce Tomate keep well in the freezer and only need reheating and a good stir once hot. Sauce Béchamel can be frozen but needs a little bit more elbow grease once defrosted, meaning that you will have to whisk it whilst reheating. Demi-glace (made from Espagnole) can be frozen or kept in the fridge where it will solidify slightly, which means you can literally take out a tablespoon to add to soups, stocks and gravies as and when needed. Sauce Velouté can be frozen but, like Béchamel, needs a little more work whilst reheating. Sauce Hollandaise needs to be eaten as soon as possible after it is made and does not keep well in either fridge or freezer.

I hope you have enjoyed reading this 'project' as much as I have had creating it. Until the next time and the next project?

Enjoy

The base is yellow.

Three days ago, I wrote about one of the five mother sauces, Sauce Béchamel or white sauce. Two days ago I wrote about the second of the mother sauces, Sauce Velouté. Yesterday I wrote about the third mother sauce; Sauce Espagnole. Today is the turn of the first mother sauce that is not based on roux but uses egg yolks as the thickening agent. The liquid is melted butter. They might not be the healthiest of sauces but I couldn't imagine a world without Eggs Benedict! I am, of course, talking about Sauce Hollandaise.

Hollandaise is an emulsified sauce (an emulsion is a mixture of two liquids that would ordinarily not mix together, like oil and vinegar), and uses clarified butter because whole butter, which contains water and milk solids, can break the emulsion. Clarified butter is just pure butterfat, so it helps the emulsion remain stable.

To clarify butter:

1. Gently melt unsalted butter in a saucepan over low heat. As the butter melts, you'll see a layer of foam rising to the surface. The bubbles are the butter's water content boiling off, and the white residue is the milk solids separating out from the butterfat and water
2. As the butter continues to simmer, use a ladle to skim the foam and milk solids from the surface of the liquefied butter. Note the clear, golden liquid underneath the foamy residue. This is different from the technique for making ghee, in which the milk solids are allowed to settle to the bottom and turn slightly brown
• Keep a separate bowl for the milk solids you skim off — it's fantastic on popcorn! You can also add the leftover milk solids to mashed potatoes or as a topping for vegetables. They're also be delicious over pancakes, waffles or French toast
3. In a few minutes you'll have skimmed off most of the milk solids, leaving just the pure, yellow butterfat

Some people are not comfortable eating Hollandaise as it contains egg yolks. Although the egg yolks are heated through, you might want to use pasteurised egg yolks which are now available in most supermarkets. I, however, do not worry too much as the yolks are cooked over a pan of simmering water. It's best to serve hollandaise right away. You can hold it for about an hour or so, provided you keep it warm. After two hours, though, you should toss it — both for quality and safety reasons. Serve the sauce with poached eggs, vegetables or poached fish.

Sauce Hollandaise

Ingredients:

• 240 millilitre clarified butter, warm but not hot
• 4 egg yolks
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice (1 small lemon)
• 1 tablespoon cold water
• Salt, to taste
• White pepper or cayenne pepper, to taste

Method:

1. Heat an inch or two of water in a saucepan over a medium heat
2. Mix the egg yolks and the cold water in a glass or stainless steel bowl (not aluminum)
• Whisk for a minute or two, until the mixture is light and foamy. Whisk in a couple of drops of lemon juice, too
3. The water in the saucepan should have begun to simmer. Set the bowl directly atop the saucepan of simmering water
• The water itself should not come in contact with the bottom of the bowl
4. Whisk the eggs for a minute or two, until they have thickened and are a very pale yellow
5. Remove the bowl from the heat and begin adding the melted butter
• Add the butter slowly at first, just a few drops at a time, while whisking constantly, if you add it too quickly, the emulsion will break
• Place the bowl on a damp tea towel to keep the bowl from moving
6. Continue beating in the melted butter
• As the sauce thickens, you can gradually increase the rate at which you add it, but at first, slower is better
7. After you've added all the butter, whisk in the remaining lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper (or a dash of Tabasco sauce)
• The finished hollandaise sauce will have a smooth, firm consistency, similar to mayonnaise. If it's too thick, you can adjust the consistency by whisking in a few drops of warm water

All the recipes below are based on the full recipe above, unless stated otherwise.

Sauce Béarnaise (typically served with grilled steak)
In a saucepan, heat 60 millilitre white wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons chopped shallots, ½ teaspoon crushed black peppercorns and ½ tablespoon tarragon to a simmer and reduce until the mixture is nearly dry. There should be about two tablespoons of liquid remaining. Remove from heat and transfer to a glass or stainless steel bowl (not aluminum). Add 4 egg yolks to this bowl and whisk for a minute or two, until the mixture is light and foamy. From here on in, the process is the same as with Hollandaise. Once all the butter has been incorporated into the egg mixture, strain the sauce into a new bowl, stir in 1 tablespoons chopped chervil (or parsley) and ½ tablespoon tarragon. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt and cayenne pepper (or a dash of Tabasco sauce). The finished Béarnaise sauce will have a smooth, firm consistency. If it's too thick, you can adjust the consistency by whisking in a few drops of warm water.

Sauce Dijon (serve with vegetables, fish or grilled chicken)
Make a Sauce Hollandaise as above. Once all the butter has been incorporated into the egg mixture, add 4 tablespoons Dijon mustard and whisk this into the sauce.

Sauce Foyot (perfect with grilled steak)

Melt 2 tablespoons Glace de Viande (meat glaze, see here on how to make it) in a pan over low heat. Make a recipe for Sauce Béarnaise (as above). Stir the melted meat glaze into the Béarnaise.

Sauce Choron (with grilled steak)
Make a recipe for Sauce Béarnaise (as above). In a small saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of tomato paste until it just starts to change colour. Leave the tomato paste to cool, then mix the tomato paste into the Sauce Béarnaise.

Sauce Maltaise (cooked asparagus and broccoli)
Make a recipe for Sauce Hollandaise (as above). Once all the butter has been incorporated into the egg mixture, whisk in 60 millilitre of blood orange juice and 1 teaspoon of orange zest.

Sauce Mousseline (this is sometimes called a Sauce Chantilly and can be used for seafood, vegetables and poultry)
Make a recipe for Sauce Hollandaise (as above). Whisk 120 millilitre double cream till it forms stiff peaks and fold this into the Hollandaise.
You can replace the salt and pepper with 1 tablespoon caster sugar and 2 teaspoons vanilla extract to make a Sauce Mousseline that can be used for desserts. For a lighter version of both versions of the sauce, you can replace the cream with an equal quantity of whipped egg whites.

Seven sauces, with a variety of uses (including desserts). More variations to the sauces can be created by adding herbs or spices. The best tip when making Sauce Hollandaise, and its small sauces, is to take it slow and not to worry too much. As long as you make sure that the boiling water doesn't touch the bowl, and that the clarified butter isn't too warm, your egg yolks will behave like a dream but if you find that your eggs are scrambling after all, try adding a tablespoon of ice cold water; whisk like mad as you add the water, this might just bring it back.

Tomorrow I will post the last mother sauce, so stay tuned and, most importantly

Enjoy

The base is brown.

Two days ago, I wrote about one of the five mother sauces, Sauce Béchamel or white sauce. Yesterday I wrote about the second of the mother sauces, Sauce Velouté. Today is all about the third mother sauce; Sauce Espagnole. This is the last of the mother sauces that is based on roux. For this sauce, the roux is cooked for the longest amount of time to a deep brown colour (done on a low heat to prevent the roux from burning). The liquid used is brown stock. This makes it similar to a Velouté but the difference is that Espagnole is made with tomato puree and mirepoix (a combination of chopped carrots, celery and onions) for a deeper colour and flavour. Moreover, brown stock itself is made from bones that have first been roasted, which adds even more colour and flavour to the finished sauce.

To make matters even more 'complicated', the sauce is further 'refined' to make what is called a 'demi-glace' (a very fancy word for a reduction of half and half Sauce Espagnole and brown stock). As it is the demi-glace that is mainly used to make the 'small' sauces, this is an important step but time is always limited so, for a shortcut, you could skip the demi-glace step and make the small sauces directly from the mother sauce. You will, however, lose some flavour and body in the finished product. A trick professional kitchens have is to make enormous batches of sauces that they can keep on hand for when they are required but most of us won't have the massive pans used for this, nor the space to keep it afterwards, so the shortcut is definitely an option...

So, what is a sauce exactly? In principle it is a liquid that is combined with some sort of thickening agent and flavourings. Each of the five mother sauces is made with a different liquid, and a different thickening agent — although three of the mother sauces are thickened with roux, in each case the roux is cooked for a different amount of time to produce a lighter or darker colour.

Roux is melted butter (or fat) and flour: melt butter in a pan until 'frothing', add an equal amount of plain flour and stir (using a whisk is the best method to prevent lumps) until a thick paste forms, cook at least until the raw flour taste is gone (it will start smelling biscuit-y).
How long you cook it for depends on which type of sauce you want to make. How much butter and flour you use depends on how thick you want your sauce to be:

• Pouring sauce: one tablespoon each of butter and flour to 240 millilitre of milk
• Medium sauce: two tablespoons each of butter and flour to 240 millilitre of milk
• Thick sauce: three tablespoons each of butter and flour to 240 millilitre of milk

A lot of chefs prefer to use clarified butter to make a roux as this has a higher burning point than butter. Although I normally don't really bother doing this and just keep a close eye on the pan, for a brown roux I do make a difference as the roux needs to cook for a longer period of time and I do not want a bitter, burned flavour. Clarified butter has all the milk solids and water removed so that only the pure fat remains:

1. Gently melt unsalted butter in a saucepan over low heat. As the butter melts, you'll see a layer of foam rising to the surface. The bubbles are the butter's water content boiling off, and the white residue is the milk solids separating out from the butterfat and water
2. As the butter continues to simmer, use a ladle to skim the foam and milk solids from the surface of the liquefied butter. Note the clear, golden liquid underneath the foamy residue. This is different from the technique for making ghee, in which the milk solids are allowed to settle to the bottom and turn slightly brown
• Keep a separate bowl for the milk solids you skim off — it's fantastic on popcorn! You can also add the leftover milk solids to mashed potatoes or as a topping for vegetables. They're also be delicious over pancakes, waffles or French toast
3. In a few minutes you'll have skimmed off most of the milk solids, leaving just the pure, yellow butterfat

As Sauce Espagnole is made with brown stock, here is a recipe if you have never made this before.

Sauce Espagnole

Ingredients:

• 500 gram mirepoix
• 260 gram diced onion
• 120 gram diced carrot
• 120 gram diced celery sticks
• 3 tablespoons clarified butter
• 3 tablespoons plain flour
• 1 ½ litre brown stock
• 4 tablespoons tomato paste
• Herb sachet
• 1 bay leaf
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme
• 4 fresh parsley stems

Method:

1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat until it becomes frothy
2. Add the mirepoix and fry for a few minutes until it's lightly browned, making sure it doesn't burn
3. With a wooden spoon, stir the flour into the mirepoix a little bit at a time, until it is fully incorporated and forms a roux
• Lower the heat and cook the roux for another five minutes or so, until it's light brown. Don't let it burn! The roux will have a slightly nutty aroma at this point
4. Using a whisk, slowly add the stock and tomato paste to the roux, whisking vigorously to make sure it's free of lumps
5. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, add the sachet and simmer for about 50 minutes or until the total volume has reduced by about a third, stirring frequently to make sure the sauce doesn't scorch at the bottom of the pan. Use a ladle to skim off any impurities that rise to the surface
6. Remove the sauce from the heat and remove the sachet
• For an extra smooth consistency, carefully pour the sauce through a wire mesh strainer lined with a piece of cheesecloth
7. Serve hot. If not serving the sauce right away, keep it covered and warm until you're ready to use it.

To make a demi-glace, use the full amount as above (about 1 litre) of Sauce Espagnole and the same amount of brown stock and, over low heat, reduce by half (you should have about a litre of demi-glace). All the recipes below are based on this amount of sauce, unless stated otherwise.

Sauce Marchand de Vin (with roasts and steak)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine 240 millilitre red wine and 60 gram finely chopped shallots. Heat until the liquid boils, lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced to only a quarter. Add the demi-glace, then lower heat to a simmer and reduce for about 5 minutes. Strain through a mesh strainer, season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve right away.

Sauce Robert (with grilled pork and other meats)
In a small bowl, combine ½ teaspoon sugar and 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter and cook 120 gram chopped onions until soft and translucent, but don't let them turn brown. Add 240 millilitre white wine, heat until the liquid boils, then lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced by two-thirds. Add the demi-glace, then lower the heat to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Strain through a mesh strainer, add 2 teaspoons dry mustard and the sugar-lemon mixture. Serve right away.

Sauce Charcutière (with grilled pork and other meats)
In a small bowl, combine ½ teaspoon sugar and 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter and cook 120 gram chopped onions until soft and translucent, but don't let them turn brown. Add 240 millilitre white wine, heat until the liquid boils, then lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced by two-thirds. Add the demi-glace, then lower the heat to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Strain through a mesh strainer, add 2 teaspoons mustard and the sugar-lemon mixture. Garnish with 60 gram chopped cornichons and serve right away.

Sauce Lyonnaise (with roasted meats and poultry)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter and cook 120 gram chopped onions until they turn a light golden brown. Add 120 millilitre white wine vinegar, heat until the liquid boils, then lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced by half. Add the demi-glace, then lower heat to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Strain through a mesh strainer and serve right away.

Sauce Chasseur (perfect for game dishes)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat until it's frothy. Add 250 gram sliced mushrooms and 2 finely chopped shallots and fry until the mushrooms are soft and the shallots are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 240 millilitre white wine, heat until the liquid boils, then lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced by about three-fourths. Add the demi-glace and 250 gram diced tomato, then lower heat to a simmer and reduce for about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and serve right away.

Sauce Bercy (with roasts and steaks, not to be mistaken for the Sauce Bercy Velouté that is served with seafood)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine 60 millilitre white wine and 1 finely chopped shallots. Heat until the liquid boils, then lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced by about three-fourths. Add 475 millilitre demi-glace, then lower heat to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes.

Mushroom Sauce (with roasted or grilled meat)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat until it's frothy. Add 250 gram sliced mushrooms and 1 finely chopped shallot and fry until the mushrooms are soft and the shallots are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the demi-glace, bring to a boil then lower heat to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Stir in 60 millilitre sherry, season to taste with lemon juice and serve right away.

Madeira or Port Sauce (with roasts and steak)

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 475 millilitre demi-glace to a simmer and reduce for about 5 minutes. Stir in 60 millilitre Madeira or Port wine and swirl in 2 tablespoons butter. Serve right away.

Ten new sauces, all perfect for grilled and roasted meats, from steak to pork to poultry to game. Variations are practically limitedless, so make sure to vary the ingredients (especially the herbs, although so-called wood herbs tend to work best). The Sauce Espagnole might look daunting at first but is well worth a try (if you have some free time over the weekend).

Tomorrow I will post the fourth mother sauce, so stay tuned and, most importantly

Enjoy

The base is blond.

Yesterday I wrote about one of the five mother sauces, Sauce Béchamel or white sauce. Today is all about Sauce Velouté. This sauce is also made with roux but stock is used as the liquid: chicken, veal or fish stock to be precise. Velouté is the head of this family of sauces and there are three 'daughter' sauces or secondary mother sauces: Chicken Velouté with cream (Sauce Suprême), Veal Velouté with egg yolks and cream (Sauce Allemande) and Fish Velouté with white wine and double cream (White Wine Sauce). I see a theme emerging here... All other sauces that are derived from one of these four main sauces is called a 'small' sauce.

So, what is a sauce exactly? In principle it is a liquid that is combined with some sort of thickening agent and flavourings. Each of the five mother sauces is made with a different liquid, and a different thickening agent — although three of the mother sauces are thickened with roux, in each case the roux is cooked for a different amount of time to produce a lighter or darker colour.

Roux is melted butter (or fat) and flour: melt butter in a pan until 'frothing', add an equal amount of plain flour and stir (using a whisk is the best method to prevent lumps) until a thick paste forms, cook at least until the raw flour taste is gone (it will start smelling biscuit-y).

A lot of chefs prefer to use clarified butter to make a roux as this has a higher burning point than butter. Clarified butter has all the milk solids and water removed so that only the pure fat remains:

1. Gently melt unsalted butter in a saucepan over low heat. As the butter melts, you'll see a layer of foam rising to the surface. The bubbles are the butter's water content boiling off, and the white residue is the milk solids separating out from the butterfat and water
2. As the butter continues to simmer, use a ladle to skim the foam and milk solids from the surface of the liquefied butter. Note the clear, golden liquid underneath the foamy residue. This is different from the technique for making ghee, in which the milk solids are allowed to settle to the bottom and turn slightly brown
• Keep a separate bowl for the milk solids you skim off — it's fantastic on popcorn! You can also add the leftover milk solids to mashed potatoes or as a topping for vegetables. They're also be delicious over pancakes, waffles or French toast
3. In a few minutes you'll have skimmed off most of the milk solids, leaving just the pure, yellow butterfat

As stated earlier on, Velouté is made with stock, which makes it an incredibly versatile sauce. The base is a blond roux so you need to make the roux and let is cook slightly longer than you would for a béchamel, about one to two minutes, until a light yellow (blond) colour before you add the stock of choice.
Velouté, unlike Béchamel, is not a finished sauce. In other words, a Velouté is not typically served as is but flavourings are added to create the finished product.

Sauce Velouté

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons clarified butter
• 2 tablespoons plain flour
• 1440 millilitre chicken, veal or fish stock

Method:

1. Heat the stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan, then lower the heat so that the stock just stays hot
2. In a separate heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the clarified butter over a medium heat until it becomes frothy but take care not to let the butter turn brown as this will affect the flavour
3. With a wooden spoon, stir the flour into the melted butter a little bit at a time, until it is fully incorporated into the butter, giving you a pale-yellow-colored paste, the roux
4. Heat the roux for another few minutes or so, until it has turned a light blond colour
5. Slowly add the hot stock to the roux, whisking vigorously to make sure it's free of lumps
6. Simmer the sauce for about 30 minutes or until the total volume has reduced by about one-third, stirring frequently to make sure the sauce doesn't scorch at the bottom of the pan
• Some impurities (from the stock) might come to the top of the sauce but these can easily be removed with a spoon or ladle
7. The resulting sauce should be smooth and velvety. If it's too thick, whisk in a bit more hot stock until it's just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon
8. Remove the sauce from the heat (for an extra smooth consistency, carefully pour the sauce through a wire mesh strainer lined with a piece of cheesecloth) and keep the Velouté covered until you're ready to use it.

From here on in, all the recipes are based on this full recipe unless stated otherwise. 

'Daughter' or secondary mother sauces

Sauce Suprême (perfect with pan fried chicken)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, gently heat 240 millilitre double cream to just below a simmer, making sure the cream does not boil. Cover and keep warm. Heat Chicken Velouté in a separate saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down to a simmer and reduce for about 5 minutes or until the total volume has reduced by about a third. Stir the warm cream into the Velouté and bring it back to a simmer for just a moment. Stir in 1 tablespoon of butter, season to taste with salt and white pepper (and a dash of lemon juice). Strain through cheesecloth and serve right away.

Sauce Allemande (ideal with veal, poached chicken, vegetables and eggs)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat Veal Velouté over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer and reduce for about 5 minutes or until the total volume has reduced by about a third. In a stainless steel or glass bowl, beat together 120 millilitre double cream and 2 egg yolks until smooth (this is called a liaison). Slowly add about 240 millilitre of the hot Velouté into the liaison, whisking constantly so that the egg yolks don't scramble from the heat. Now gradually whisk the warm liaison back into the Velouté. Bring the sauce back to a gentle simmer for just a moment, but don't let it boil. Season to taste with salt, white pepper and lemon juice. Strain and serve right away.

White Wine Sauce (for fish and seafood)

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, gently heat 120 millilitre double cream to just below a simmer, but don't let it boil. Cover and keep warm. In a separate saucepan, simmer 120 millilitre white wine until it has reduced by half. Add Fish Velouté to the wine, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and reduce for about 5 minutes or until the total volume has reduced by about a third. Stir the warm cream into the Velouté and bring it back to a simmer for just a moment. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter, season to taste with salt and white pepper and a dash of lemon juice. Strain through cheesecloth and serve right away.
The following recipes are all based on the six sauces above and the recipes will all state which one of them can (or needs to) be used.

Sauce Normande (for fish and seafood dishes)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon butter and fry 240 gram mushrooms until soft, about 5 minutes. Add Fish Velouté and 120 millilitre fish stock to the mushrooms. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and reduce by about a third. In a stainless steel or glass bowl, beat together 240 millilitre cream and 4 egg yolks until smooth (liaison). Slowly add about a third of the hot Velouté into the liaison, whisking constantly so that the egg yolks don't scramble from the heat. Now gradually whisk the warm liaison back into the Velouté. Bring the sauce back to a gentle simmer for just a moment, but don't let it boil. Strain, swirl in two tablespoons butter and serve right away.

Sauce Bercy (for fish and seafood dishes)

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine 60 millilitre white wine and 2 tablespoons chopped shallots. Heat until the liquid boils, lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced by a little more than half. Add 475 millilitre Fish Velouté, then lower the heat to a simmer and reduce for about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Season to taste with lemon juice and serve right away.

Hungarian Sauce (perfect with pan fried chicken)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat until it's frothy. Add 60 gram chopped onions and 1 tablespoon paprika and fry until soft, about 5 minutes. Add 120 millilitre white wine, bring to a boil and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Add Chicken or Veal Velouté, return to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and reduce for about 10 additional minutes. Strain and serve right away.

Mushroom Sauce (with chicken, poultry and veal)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat until it's frothy. Stir in 1 tablespoon lemon juice, then add 240 gram mushrooms and fry until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in Allemande or Suprême Sauce. Bring to a simmer, cook for another 5 minutes and serve right away.

Aurora Sauce (for eggs, vegetables and pasta dishes)

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat Allemande or Suprême Sauce. Stir in 240 gram tomato purée, simmer for another minute and serve right away.

Sauce Poulette (chicken and poultry dishes)

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat until it's frothy. Add 500 gram mushrooms and fry until soft, about 5 minutes. Add Allemande Sauce to the mushrooms. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 10 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, season to taste with (about 2 tablespoons) lemon juice and serve right away.

Shrimp Sauce (fish and seafood, especially shellfish)

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring White Wine Sauce to a simmer. Stir in 120 gram shrimp butter and ¼ teaspoon cayenne and cook for another minute. Add 120 gram cooked shrimp and stir until it is just heated through. Serve right away.

Herb Seafood Sauce (fish and seafood)
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring White Wine Sauce to a simmer. Stir in 2 tablespoons each of fresh chopped parsley, chives and tarragon and serve right away.

Eleven more sauces to add to your repertoire. There are many more variations, for instance a Mexican Velouté based on Sauce Suprême with added chillies that is used for Chicken Chimichangas (an absolute must-try dish if you like spice), and you will be able to make more up as you go along.

Tomorrow I will post the third mother sauce, so stay tuned and, most importantly

Enjoy