Sometimes nothing else will do...

What is your favourite pie, tart or cake? Is it a traditional Victoria Sponge? Chocolate cake? Carrot cake? Do you prefer an Upside-Down cake? Or are you more a type for Cheesecake? Cupcakes? Angel (or Devil's) Food Cake? Brownies? What about an impressive Pavlova? Treacle Tart? A posh Tarte Tatin? Banoffee Pie? Fruit Crumble?

I like love all of the above but what about a perfectly ordinary Apple Pie? Crispy, sweet, pastry stuffed to bursting with fresh, tart, apples. Baked in the oven to golden perfection and served with either custard or ice cream. Nothing fancy, nothing posh, but sometimes nothing else will do.

Apple Pie is near enough ancient, dating back to the 1300s (in the UK) when the apples were mixed with saffron, figs, spices and pears. In The Netherlands the recipes started around the same time but have little changed since 1514. America and Canada had to wait for apple pie until the 1700s when planting of European apple varieties in the English colonies took place to become fruit-bearing apple trees, to be selected for their cooking qualities, as there were no native apples. Apple pie in The Netherlands was so important that in 1626, the Dutch Golden Age, it was captured in a painting...

The major difference between English and Dutch Apple Pie is the fact that the Dutch do not cook their apples prior to filling the pastry. This creates a firmer texture, a higher pie and (I think) a better apple flavour. (But the main benefit of not cooking the apples prior to filling the pie has got to be the amount of time saved, not to mention less pots and pans to clean...) Another difference is the lid of the pie: the English usually cover the pie with a full pastry lid where the Dutch prefer to create a pastry lattice so that some of the filling is on show.

Growing up, we had a massive garden with a couple of apple and pear trees. My mum had one rule when it came to those trees: we didn't pick the fruit until after her birthday mid-September. Our haul of apples each year was usually significant and my mum would use them for apple sauce or compote and, of course, apple pie. Fancy as Apple Charlotte or Tarte Tatin, or simply as a traditional apple pie with loads of cinnamon and sultanas. The most requested pie for any of our birthdays? Apple pie, regardless whether the birthday was in April, June, September, November or December... Fashionable or not, I will gladly make, bake, slice and eat Apple Pie... Sue me... Or ask me real sweetly and I will bake one for you...

(Dutch) Apple Pie

Ingredients:
For the pastry:

• 2 eggs
• 500 gram self-rising flour
• 300 gram cubed ice cold butter
• 175 gram brown sugar
• A pinch of salt
• zest of ½ lemon

For the filling:

• 300 gram sultanas
• 2 tablespoons brandy (or cognac or rum)
• juice of 1 lemon
• 1 kilogram tart apples
• 75 gram brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
• 2 teaspoons 'speculaas kruiden'
• 1 tablespoon corn flour

Method:

For the Pastry:

1. Whisk the eggs loose
2. Sift the flour into a large mixing bowl
3. Add the cold butter and work this into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs
4. Add most of the egg (keep about a tablespoon of the egg behind to brush the pie with later), the brown sugar, salt and lemon zest
5. Knead the dough until the dough comes together into a ball and set aside for 20 minutes
6. Grease a large springform cake pan (24 cm x 6.5 cm/10" x 2 1/2")
7. Cover the bottom and sides of the dish with 3/4 of the dough

For the filling:

1. In a small bowl, steep the sultanas in the brandy for at least an hour
2. Peel and core the apples and cut them into bite-sized pieces
• Mix the apples with the lemon juice to prevent them from 'browning' to quickly
3. Mix the sultanas, brown sugar, cinnamon and spices in with the apples
4. Sprinkle the corn flour over and mix well

To make the pie:

1. Preheat the oven to 175°C
2. Add the apple mixture to the pie dish and firmly press down
3. Use the rest of the dough to make the lattice topping
• Arrange some strips one way and some strips the other way, press to fix it to the sides and fold the dough back in towards the pie. It should not be hanging over the pie dish, otherwise it will stick
4. Brush the pastry with the egg wash
5. Place the pie in the centre of the oven and bake for approximately 1 hour
6. Allow the pie to cool in the springform and then carefully turn out

Tips and Tricks:

• I don't bother to roll the dough out and cut it as it is pretty sticky and causes a mess. I simply wet my hands and shape it by hand, pressing the dough into the pie dish in a uniform thickness. As for the lattice-work, I shape them by hand into longish sausage shapes, which I press flat onto the pie. The pie will rise and hide a multitude of sins

Variations:

• If you don't have 'speculaas kruiden', you could use mixed spice or pumpkin pie spices instead, or you can simply stick to the original recipe and use 3 teaspoons ground cinnamon. I do love the depth of flavour that the speculaas kruiden seem to add. You can also make your own speculaas kruiden
• In stead of using corn flour in the apple filling, try using 1 tablespoon custard powder
• Both corn flour and custard powder will take some of the liquid of the apples and prevent 'soggy bottom' syndrome in your pie
• Try replacing half of the apples for pears
• Leave out he sugar as the pears will act as a natural sweetener
• Another way of preventing 'soggy bottom' syndrome is to add some ground almonds or almond paste
• Once you have placed your dough in the pie dish, add a thin layer of the almond paste or ground almonds, add the apples and finish as above
• For an alcohol-free version, try soaking the sultanas in some tea or apple juice

As we say back home

Eet smakelijk

Or, in English

Enjoy

Coffin or Star?

You must be thinking I have gone off my rocker but this title, "Coffin or Star?", is not as daft as it may sound. In days gone by, the crust of a pie (yes, we're taking pie again) was called the coffin. We have moved on since then and just call it the pie crust but I can see where they were coming from. Especially when you know that in those days most pies were not round but oblong, regardless of the filling. The question itself, coffin or star, relates to how you fancy your mince pies; do you prefer a full 'coffin', or are you more of the 'star' variety?

My preference depends on how sweet the filling is, how much alcohol it contains and how good the crust is. If the filling is not too sweet, and contains a decent amount of alcohol, then I prefer a 'coffin' as the pastry will dampen the harshest alcohol flavours and add sweetness to the filling. If the filling is too sweet and there is not a lot (or no) alcohol, then I prefer a 'star' (or any other shape the baker has come up with).
Aesthetically, however, I prefer the 'star'; I like the contrast between the dark filling and the golden pastry, so I will usually make plenty of full 'coffins' and a few 'stars' to put on top of the pile.

In 2008 I had my first British Christmas. Can you imagine my face the first time I had a mince pie? Someone, I think it was my now sister-in-law, asked me if I wanted cream or custard with my mince pie. As I only knew mince of the meat variety, this question puzzled me. Why on earth would anyone want to have custard with a gorgeous beef pie? The look on my face must have been worth a million quid, and before long everyone was laughing at my mistake. It was quickly explained that Mince Meat is a sweet filling of dried fruit with spices. I opted for the brandy cream...

Mince pies used to contain meat and was a mix of (usually) mutton, suet, dried fruit and spices that had been brought over by the European crusaders returning from the Middle-East. The original recipes used to contain thirteen ingredients representing Jesus Christ and his twelve Apostles. The meat component has since been dropped from the recipe, although this was still used in the 1900s, but suet is still required.

With Christmas fast approaching (just 37 more days), I suddenly realised this morning that I had not made my 'Mince Meat' yet. There is still time but I need to get a move on... 

Mince Meat

(to be used in Mince Pies)

Ingredients:

• 500 gram Bramley apples
• 500 gram mixed dried fruit (raisins, sultanas, dates, figs)
• 225 gram chopped, mixed peel
• 500 gram suet of choice
• 500 gram demerara sugar
• 2 lemons, grated zest and juice
• 60 gram chopped, mixed nuts
• 1 tablespoon mixed, ground spices (cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger)
• 4 tablespoons whiskey, rum or brandy (optional)

Thirteen ingredients (excluding the optional alcohol and including the suet)!

Method:

1. Peel and chop the apples into pieces the size of the sultanas
2. Mix the apples with the lemon juice and rind
3. Chop the dates and figs into pieces the size of the sultanas and add to the apple mix
4. Add the rest of the dried fruit, mixed peel, nuts, spices, suet and sugar
5. Stir in the alcohol (optional) and leave to stand, overnight, at room temperature, covered with a cloth
6. Pre-heat the oven to the lowest setting
7. Stir the mixture and transfer to an oven proof dish
8. Put the dish in the oven and heat slowly for one hour
9. Pack into clean, dry jars, cover with wax disks and cling film or cloth
10. Store in a cool, dark place until needed
• The longer it can stand the better the flavours will be developed

The recipe should yield approximately six 500 gram jars.

I wish you an early Merry Christmas

Enjoy

Inspiration, oh inspiration. Where for art thou, inspiration?

Shakespeare bastardised; my only excuse is 'why reinvent the wheel?'... You all have my sincere apologies.

But, for some reason, my inspiration has left me today, my muse has abandoned me, no revelation has come and I am feeling bereft. My usual solution for this (as it does happen every now and then) is to rifle through my cookbooks and ferret around on the internet as reading recipes is a sure-fire way of getting the juices running. Today they have run scared as recipes for Frumenty (something Shakespeare will, most likely, have eaten) or Hardtack are just not stimulating enough.

My determination to write and cook today was rapidly evaporating when I remembered that today I have to do something with a surplus of apples or risk throwing them. As I haven't come to terms yet with what's for tea tonight, I will have to do something with the apples that can be part of tea (pork chops with apple) or part of 'afters' (apple with vanilla ice cream and custard) or maybe even something for breakfast tomorrow morning (apples with pancakes). Note to self: get some pork chops.

I am going to make Spiced Apples. Or, more precisely, I am going to make apple pie without the vessel as that will be replaced by either pork, ice cream and custard or pancakes... Slightly sweet and sticky, gently spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger and maybe even some star anise.

Spiced Apple

Ingredients:

• Apples, as much as you have and the variety you have available
• A mix of apples is favourable as they all bring their own characteristics to the table (literally)
• Per 500 gram apples:
• Butter (I prefer salted)
• (soft brown) sugar to taste
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon (to taste)
• 1 level teaspoon nutmeg (to taste)
• 1/2 teaspoon cloves (to taste)
• 1 level teaspoon ground or fresh ginger (to taste)
• 2 star anise (optional) (to taste)

Method:

1. Clean the apples, peel (optional), remove the core and cut into pieces (cubes, wedges or slices, as you prefer). Place the apples in a bowl of water with some lemon juice to prevent from browning too much whilst cutting the rest of the apples, if you have a lot
2. (Drain the apple pieces). Coat the apples in the spices
3. Melt the butter in a heavy frying pan
4. Add the sugar (and star anise, if using) and let melt
5. Add the apples, let them soften and caramelise

Some recipes just don't come easier than that...

Variations and serving suggestions:

• Use a mix of baking/cooking and eating apples; this will give an interesting result in flavour and texture
• Use a different type of sugar/sweetener (such as granulated, demerara, honey or maple syrup) to alter the flavour (and colour) slightly
• Squeeze in a little lemon juice if the mixture is too sweet for your liking or use less sugar/sweetener if you are using very sweet apples
• Add in a tablespoon (per 500 gram apple) of sultanas or other dried berries such as cranberries or barberries for an extra burst of fruity flavour
• Replace the apples with pears, the cooking instructions stay the same
• For tea:
• Serve with pan fried pork chops, venison, (wild) boar or rabbit
• For afters:
• Serve with (home made) vanilla ice cream and/or custard
• For breakfast/brunch:
• Fold into pancake batter or spoon on top of pancakes or three-in-a-pan (Scottish pancakes)
• For a treat:
• Use as a filling (before cooking) for apple (or pear) pie
• Mix the spices through some flour and coat the apples in the flour mix. Prepare a cake batter and mix the apples through. Pour into a cake tin and bake as normal (this also works well with pears)

Enjoy

 

The countdown has started!

The Righteous Brothers sang that 'Time goes by so slowly'. That might be the case but I cannot believe that it is only sixty-four (64!!!) days till Christmas! For me, the Christmas period starts as soon as All Hallow's Eve has passed. This is only ten days away, so I will be setting up the Christmas tree in just twelve more days (have to wait till the weekend, now don't I?). I love the atmosphere it brings and I can't help but smile when I see a Christmas tree all 'dressed up' and ready for a party.

Part of my love for Christmas is the wonderful food (and treats, lots of treats) and drinks that we so much associate with this time of year (I will contradict myself in a moment, so just bear with me for now). As there are only the two of us, we do not have a big bird and all the trimmings for Christmas: a small bird (such as pheasant or duck) is more than enough. Then again, it doesn't necessarily have to be a bird at all. I would be just as happy with bubble & squeak (good old-fashioned Stamppot) or pancakes. Not very festive? It's not the food and treats that makes the festivity, nor the drinks (or gifts) for that matter, it's the people around you. It is knowing that you are with the people that love you, regardless [or perhaps because] of all your many flaws. (There, self-contradiction over and done.)

Earlier this year I turned thirty-six but I am still as exited as a six-year-old when it comes to Christmas; just the smell of cinnamon, oranges, nutmeg and cloves puts me in the mood to turn up the volume and play 'White Christmas', 'Little Drummer Boy' or 'Petit Papa Noël'. Oh, and before you start: Father Christmas does exist. I know, I have seen his picture...

Now that the evenings are lengthening and the temperature is starting to drop, I am in the mood for heart-warming 'pick-me-ups' and comfort food. As comfort food means something different to each and everyone of us, this comes in a massive variety. For me it is: chicken curry; good old bubble & squeak; chicken chimichanga; pancakes or 'three-in-a-pan'; bread-and-butter pudding; chocolate cake; beef stew (pie); stroganoff; goulash; onion soup. All home-made, all rather stodgy and all even better reheated the next day (except for the pancakes and the chocolate cake but they never last that long anyway).

Noticed that there weren't any drinks in that list? That's because it was a food list... But, for me, there are only two drinks worth mentioning and they are: Advocaat (or eggnog, although Advocaat is much thicker and eaten with a spoon so it's not even really a drink) and Mulled Wine. 

Mulled wine is popular, in one form or another, all over the world and there are as many recipes as there are countries. There are alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions and recipes call for red (or white) wine, port, claret, sake, or fruit juice (or a slightly sweeter beer such as the Belgians produce). The spices used are mainly cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves but you can add peppercorns, mace, juniper berries, cardamom, star anise, or whatever you prefer. Although usually citrus fruit is added, such as orange, clementine or lemon, you can use apple, cranberries or even ginger. The wine is sweetened with either sugar, honey or maple syrup. You can even add a shot of Rum or Cachaça.
My favourite recipe is below (with some variations at the bottom):

Mulled wine

(Not just for Christmas)

Ingredients:

• 2 bottles of red wine (the cheapest will do perfectly)
• cinnamon sticks (to taste)
• cloves (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
• nutmeg (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
• star anise (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
• peel and juice of 1 orange
• peel and juice of 1 lemon
• 2 tart apples (such as breaburn or granny smith), thinly sliced
• 200 gram (soft brown) sugar or 150 millilitre honey/maple syrup

Method:

1. Add the sugar (or honey/maple syrup) to a pan (make sure to use a pan that is big enough to hold all the ingredients) and add the cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, star anise, orange and lemon peel and the juice and about half a bottle of wine. For ease, I prick the cloves into the orange peel
2. Bring the wine to the boil, let the sugar dissolve, and boil it to reduce by about half, stirring frequently to make sure nothing burns
3. Add the rest of the wine and the sliced apple and bring the wine to just below boiling point
4. Taste the mulled wine to make sure that you have used enough sugar for your taste. If not, add a small amount of sugar (honey/maple syrup) and let dissolve
5. Keep the wine warm on the lowest possible heat or put it on top of a gas-fire or wood burner (if you have one of those)

Variations:

• If you do not like red wine, try using white wine instead but leave out the star anise and the orange and lemon juice
• For a very dramatic effect: try adding some cranberries when you add the apples but make sure that they do not burst as this will spoil the colour
• If you don't like wine altogether, try using 1 pint of a slightly sweeter beer or ale (scale up if you want to share)
1. Heat the beer or ale with 1 tablespoon of honey, 2 cinnamon sticks, 4 cloves, 1 teaspoon of nutmeg and a few slices of fresh ginger (optional) until hot but not boiling (this will foam up so make sure to use a big enough pan)
2. Leave to stand for about 30 minutes to cool down and strain
3. Re-heat it gently when you are ready for your drink
• For a richer option: separate 1 egg, discarding the egg white, and beat this with 2 teaspoons of sugar for about 5 minutes until almost white in colour
• Slowly, whilst whisking, add 2 tablespoons of the hot beer and pour this mixture into the pan (make sure to whisk constantly)
• Let this heat through for about 5 more minutes and strain (if desired) into glasses (or mugs)
• For an alcohol-free version, replace the wine with fruit juice such as grape or cranberry juice

Enjoy