We can all use them, from time to time

Cookery shows on TV; you either love 'em or hate 'em. On the whole, I love them. It gives me great ideas for recipes, although I never follow them to the letter. As with all my recipes, they get adjusted to my own preferences and availability of ingredients. At the same time, however, there is something that thoroughly annoys me about them. Cookery shows want to help people cook certain food, eat better, waste less, eat healthier and so on. And so they fill you up with recipes and how to cook the dishes. That's all fine by me, what annoys me is that they don't tell you the numerous amount of hints, tips and tricks they have (there are some exceptions, but these just confirm the rule). And believe me when I say, chefs have practically a trick for everything they do. From chopping veg to juicing fruit, from rolling out pastry to seasoning food. And for everything in between...

Some of these hints, tips and tricks are being taught in college but mostly they are picked up when working in a professional kitchen. And I am going to share what I know with you, so 'Keep calm and Be a Chef'. That last part is a bit of a lie, by the way. As was pointed out to me by my husband... More accurately would be 'keep confidence and be a chef'. Which brings me to the best tip I can ever give: 'keep calm and hire a chef'...

I will add to the list below on occasion, so if ever you are stuck, come back here and see if I have a hint, tip or trick ready for you. Or leave a question in the comment section and I will come back to you. Any hints, tips and tricks you have are more than welcome too.

Hints, Tips & Tricks

Pastry:

1. The easiest way of rolling out shortcrust pastry is, probably, to roll it out between baking paper:
• This is great because you avoid using flour. Any additional flour will make your pastry taste less buttery, and most importantly there's no need to clean up any floury mess afterwards. Also, if you happen to be making pastry on a hot day and it's becoming too soft to roll out, you can simply slide the pastry into the fridge for 10 minutes to rest instead of having to scrape the soft pastry off the work surface. The golden rule when making pastry is to handle it as little as possible, otherwise it goes rubbery and tough. Using the baking-paper tip will certainly help achieve the perfect pastry
1. Cut off a piece of baking paper and place this on your work top
2. Place the pastry on top and cover with a second piece of baking paper
3. Roll the pastry out to the required size and preferred thickness
• Don't have baking paper? Cling film works equally well but sticks slightly more to the pastry
• Another great thing about this is that it makes lining a baking tin so much easier:
1. Peel of the top layer of the baking paper and lift the pastry (with the remaining bottom piece of baking paper underneath) onto 1 hand
2. Flip the sheet over, on top of the prepared baking tin (so that the pastry is inside the tin)
3. Gently ease the pastry into all the nooks and crannies (with the paper still on top)
4. Gently peel of the remaining paper and bake or fill as normal

Tomato-based sauces and soups:

1. Tinned tomatoes
• Using tinned tomatoes for a soup or sauce? Try adding a pinch of sugar to take away the acidic flavour. Use the sugar as a seasoning, so don't go overboard...
2. Fresh tomatoes
• Need to peel and finely chop fresh tomatoes?
1. Cut a tomato in half
2. Grate the flesh through the large holes of a vegetable grater until you get to the skin (hold on to the skin to keep it intact before discarding it)

Seasoning:

1. The reason most restaurant food tastes better is the correct use of seasoning. Chefs use salt, pepper and spices throughout the cooking process and season at every stage. Jacob Kenedy, Chef patron of Bocca di Lupo in Soho, once said: 'To live a long life, use less salt. To live a happy one, use more. Salt is the West's MSG – it gives food more flavour. "Correct" seasoning, to a chef, is as much salt as you can possibly get into the dish without it tasting too salty.'
• To achieve this, add (especially) salt at the beginning of the cooking process and then at every next step (with the exception of stocks destined for reduction). Make sure to taste before you add salt and add only a pinch at a time, tasting as you go 
• If you happen to over-season, you can try to bulk the dish out by adding something (barley to a soup, for instance), or to balance the salt with acid (a squeeze of lemon or dash of vinegar), or to kill it with fat (fat mutes flavours – so add butter or oil).

Tenderise (tough) meat:

1. To tenderise meat you can bash away at it with a 'meat tenderiser' or cover the meat with a piece of cling film and bash it with a heavy-based pan (brilliant if you want to work out some frustration, but you need to be careful as you don't want to wind up with pulp).
2. There is another option. You can use acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, or kachri powder to tenderise meat. However, you should use either option sparingly, as it can leave a slight tangy taste if used excessively.

Juicing fruit:

1. To get the most juice out of oranges, lemons and limes, try warming them up slightly:
• Place the fruit in direct sunlight for half an hour or stick them in the microwave for 5 seconds on high

Stock:

1. Stocks are great to have on hand as they can be used as the base for soups, sauces and gravy. There is nothing wrong with using a stock cube but making your own needn't be difficult:
• Take lots of kitchen vegetable trim (celery, fennel tops, onion, garlic, carrot peelings) and place in a pot with all your bones
• Cover with water, then cling film and tin foil it
• Cook overnight at 140°C in the oven or cook on top of the stove for at least 3 hours
2. Want a clear stock?
• By cooking it in the oven (as above) all the impurities, that you would usually remove through skimming, stick to the bottom and sides of the pot
• If you have cooked the stock on top of the stove things become slightly more laborious but not more difficult:
1. When you put the pan on the heat, avoid boiling the liquid and do not stir (if you can). If you do have to stir, use a balloon whisk and try not to disturb the ingredients too much
2. During the cooking process, skim off the foam that forms on top (with a slotted spoon)
3. Leave the stock to cool completely: the top of the stock will look clear as all the heavier particles sink to the bottom of the pan (this will happen quicker if you haven't stirred)
4. Ladle the clear liquid gently into a jug or a clean saucepan without disturbing the sediment
5. Chill it until any fat has set into solid clumps
6. Remove as much fat as possible
7. Pour your stock into a large, shallow freezer safe container
8. Line a perforated tray, flat based colander, drum sieve, or other drainage utensil that has a flat base with cheesecloth or a clean fine-weave tea-towel or dishcloth (ideally, the container that you freeze the stock in should fit into the sieve or perforated tray lying flat)
9. Place this onto another catchment container underneath (the container underneath the sieve or tray should be wide and deep enough to gather the fluid without spillage)
10. Remove your stock ice block from its original container and place into the lined drainage tray or sieve
11. Cover with cling film and put aside, preferably in the fridge overnight if you have time
12. Allow the block to melt and the stock will filter out, leaving ice and the fine particles that would make it cloudy in the cloth
• For an even richer stock, follow from step 7 onwards for a second time
3. Freeze stock into an ice-cube tray. Whenever you need to add a bit more flavour to a soup, sauce or gravy, take out an ice-cube and add it to the pan. Let it dissolve, give it a quick stir and taste to make sure the seasoning is 'just perfect'

Ginger:

1. The easiest way to peel ginger is to use a teaspoon. This might sound silly but if you use the edge of the spoon (like with a knife) you can scrape the skin off the ginger very thinly without having to cut off all the knobbly bits (this saves you loads of time and ginger)

Spices:

1. If you, like me, use a lot of spices, it is cheaper to buy whole spices and grind them yourself as and when you need them. The flavour of the spice stays very vibrant for a longer time then with ground spices and you can crush just the amount that you need. The best way to grind them is the old-fashioned way; with pestle and mortar.
2. For the best flavour in your dish, add a ground spice at the end of cooking (to give it a little lift) or you can add them in whole at the beginning. Or toast ground spices in a dry frying pan until they become fragrant before you add the rest of your ingredients (make sure not to burn the spices as they will become very bitter)

I hope these hints, tips and tricks will come in useful. Let me know how you get on...

But most of all, no matter what you are making:

Enjoy

Coffin or Star?

You must be thinking I have gone off my rocker but this title, "Coffin or Star?", is not as daft as it may sound. In days gone by, the crust of a pie (yes, we're taking pie again) was called the coffin. We have moved on since then and just call it the pie crust but I can see where they were coming from. Especially when you know that in those days most pies were not round but oblong, regardless of the filling. The question itself, coffin or star, relates to how you fancy your mince pies; do you prefer a full 'coffin', or are you more of the 'star' variety?

My preference depends on how sweet the filling is, how much alcohol it contains and how good the crust is. If the filling is not too sweet, and contains a decent amount of alcohol, then I prefer a 'coffin' as the pastry will dampen the harshest alcohol flavours and add sweetness to the filling. If the filling is too sweet and there is not a lot (or no) alcohol, then I prefer a 'star' (or any other shape the baker has come up with).
Aesthetically, however, I prefer the 'star'; I like the contrast between the dark filling and the golden pastry, so I will usually make plenty of full 'coffins' and a few 'stars' to put on top of the pile.

In 2008 I had my first British Christmas. Can you imagine my face the first time I had a mince pie? Someone, I think it was my now sister-in-law, asked me if I wanted cream or custard with my mince pie. As I only knew mince of the meat variety, this question puzzled me. Why on earth would anyone want to have custard with a gorgeous beef pie? The look on my face must have been worth a million quid, and before long everyone was laughing at my mistake. It was quickly explained that Mince Meat is a sweet filling of dried fruit with spices. I opted for the brandy cream...

Mince pies used to contain meat and was a mix of (usually) mutton, suet, dried fruit and spices that had been brought over by the European crusaders returning from the Middle-East. The original recipes used to contain thirteen ingredients representing Jesus Christ and his twelve Apostles. The meat component has since been dropped from the recipe, although this was still used in the 1900s, but suet is still required.

With Christmas fast approaching (just 37 more days), I suddenly realised this morning that I had not made my 'Mince Meat' yet. There is still time but I need to get a move on... 

Mince Meat

(to be used in Mince Pies)

Ingredients:

• 500 gram Bramley apples
• 500 gram mixed dried fruit (raisins, sultanas, dates, figs)
• 225 gram chopped, mixed peel
• 500 gram suet of choice
• 500 gram demerara sugar
• 2 lemons, grated zest and juice
• 60 gram chopped, mixed nuts
• 1 tablespoon mixed, ground spices (cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger)
• 4 tablespoons whiskey, rum or brandy (optional)

Thirteen ingredients (excluding the optional alcohol and including the suet)!

Method:

1. Peel and chop the apples into pieces the size of the sultanas
2. Mix the apples with the lemon juice and rind
3. Chop the dates and figs into pieces the size of the sultanas and add to the apple mix
4. Add the rest of the dried fruit, mixed peel, nuts, spices, suet and sugar
5. Stir in the alcohol (optional) and leave to stand, overnight, at room temperature, covered with a cloth
6. Pre-heat the oven to the lowest setting
7. Stir the mixture and transfer to an oven proof dish
8. Put the dish in the oven and heat slowly for one hour
9. Pack into clean, dry jars, cover with wax disks and cling film or cloth
10. Store in a cool, dark place until needed
• The longer it can stand the better the flavours will be developed

The recipe should yield approximately six 500 gram jars.

I wish you an early Merry Christmas

Enjoy

Inspiration, oh inspiration. Where for art thou, inspiration?

Shakespeare bastardised; my only excuse is 'why reinvent the wheel?'... You all have my sincere apologies.

But, for some reason, my inspiration has left me today, my muse has abandoned me, no revelation has come and I am feeling bereft. My usual solution for this (as it does happen every now and then) is to rifle through my cookbooks and ferret around on the internet as reading recipes is a sure-fire way of getting the juices running. Today they have run scared as recipes for Frumenty (something Shakespeare will, most likely, have eaten) or Hardtack are just not stimulating enough.

My determination to write and cook today was rapidly evaporating when I remembered that today I have to do something with a surplus of apples or risk throwing them. As I haven't come to terms yet with what's for tea tonight, I will have to do something with the apples that can be part of tea (pork chops with apple) or part of 'afters' (apple with vanilla ice cream and custard) or maybe even something for breakfast tomorrow morning (apples with pancakes). Note to self: get some pork chops.

I am going to make Spiced Apples. Or, more precisely, I am going to make apple pie without the vessel as that will be replaced by either pork, ice cream and custard or pancakes... Slightly sweet and sticky, gently spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger and maybe even some star anise.

Spiced Apple

Ingredients:

• Apples, as much as you have and the variety you have available
• A mix of apples is favourable as they all bring their own characteristics to the table (literally)
• Per 500 gram apples:
• Butter (I prefer salted)
• (soft brown) sugar to taste
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon (to taste)
• 1 level teaspoon nutmeg (to taste)
• 1/2 teaspoon cloves (to taste)
• 1 level teaspoon ground or fresh ginger (to taste)
• 2 star anise (optional) (to taste)

Method:

1. Clean the apples, peel (optional), remove the core and cut into pieces (cubes, wedges or slices, as you prefer). Place the apples in a bowl of water with some lemon juice to prevent from browning too much whilst cutting the rest of the apples, if you have a lot
2. (Drain the apple pieces). Coat the apples in the spices
3. Melt the butter in a heavy frying pan
4. Add the sugar (and star anise, if using) and let melt
5. Add the apples, let them soften and caramelise

Some recipes just don't come easier than that...

Variations and serving suggestions:

• Use a mix of baking/cooking and eating apples; this will give an interesting result in flavour and texture
• Use a different type of sugar/sweetener (such as granulated, demerara, honey or maple syrup) to alter the flavour (and colour) slightly
• Squeeze in a little lemon juice if the mixture is too sweet for your liking or use less sugar/sweetener if you are using very sweet apples
• Add in a tablespoon (per 500 gram apple) of sultanas or other dried berries such as cranberries or barberries for an extra burst of fruity flavour
• Replace the apples with pears, the cooking instructions stay the same
• For tea:
• Serve with pan fried pork chops, venison, (wild) boar or rabbit
• For afters:
• Serve with (home made) vanilla ice cream and/or custard
• For breakfast/brunch:
• Fold into pancake batter or spoon on top of pancakes or three-in-a-pan (Scottish pancakes)
• For a treat:
• Use as a filling (before cooking) for apple (or pear) pie
• Mix the spices through some flour and coat the apples in the flour mix. Prepare a cake batter and mix the apples through. Pour into a cake tin and bake as normal (this also works well with pears)

Enjoy

 

The countdown has started!

The Righteous Brothers sang that 'Time goes by so slowly'. That might be the case but I cannot believe that it is only sixty-four (64!!!) days till Christmas! For me, the Christmas period starts as soon as All Hallow's Eve has passed. This is only ten days away, so I will be setting up the Christmas tree in just twelve more days (have to wait till the weekend, now don't I?). I love the atmosphere it brings and I can't help but smile when I see a Christmas tree all 'dressed up' and ready for a party.

Part of my love for Christmas is the wonderful food (and treats, lots of treats) and drinks that we so much associate with this time of year (I will contradict myself in a moment, so just bear with me for now). As there are only the two of us, we do not have a big bird and all the trimmings for Christmas: a small bird (such as pheasant or duck) is more than enough. Then again, it doesn't necessarily have to be a bird at all. I would be just as happy with bubble & squeak (good old-fashioned Stamppot) or pancakes. Not very festive? It's not the food and treats that makes the festivity, nor the drinks (or gifts) for that matter, it's the people around you. It is knowing that you are with the people that love you, regardless [or perhaps because] of all your many flaws. (There, self-contradiction over and done.)

Earlier this year I turned thirty-six but I am still as exited as a six-year-old when it comes to Christmas; just the smell of cinnamon, oranges, nutmeg and cloves puts me in the mood to turn up the volume and play 'White Christmas', 'Little Drummer Boy' or 'Petit Papa Noël'. Oh, and before you start: Father Christmas does exist. I know, I have seen his picture...

Now that the evenings are lengthening and the temperature is starting to drop, I am in the mood for heart-warming 'pick-me-ups' and comfort food. As comfort food means something different to each and everyone of us, this comes in a massive variety. For me it is: chicken curry; good old bubble & squeak; chicken chimichanga; pancakes or 'three-in-a-pan'; bread-and-butter pudding; chocolate cake; beef stew (pie); stroganoff; goulash; onion soup. All home-made, all rather stodgy and all even better reheated the next day (except for the pancakes and the chocolate cake but they never last that long anyway).

Noticed that there weren't any drinks in that list? That's because it was a food list... But, for me, there are only two drinks worth mentioning and they are: Advocaat (or eggnog, although Advocaat is much thicker and eaten with a spoon so it's not even really a drink) and Mulled Wine. 

Mulled wine is popular, in one form or another, all over the world and there are as many recipes as there are countries. There are alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions and recipes call for red (or white) wine, port, claret, sake, or fruit juice (or a slightly sweeter beer such as the Belgians produce). The spices used are mainly cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves but you can add peppercorns, mace, juniper berries, cardamom, star anise, or whatever you prefer. Although usually citrus fruit is added, such as orange, clementine or lemon, you can use apple, cranberries or even ginger. The wine is sweetened with either sugar, honey or maple syrup. You can even add a shot of Rum or Cachaça.
My favourite recipe is below (with some variations at the bottom):

Mulled wine

(Not just for Christmas)

Ingredients:

• 2 bottles of red wine (the cheapest will do perfectly)
• cinnamon sticks (to taste)
• cloves (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
• nutmeg (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
• star anise (don't go overboard; it is a very strong flavour)
• peel and juice of 1 orange
• peel and juice of 1 lemon
• 2 tart apples (such as breaburn or granny smith), thinly sliced
• 200 gram (soft brown) sugar or 150 millilitre honey/maple syrup

Method:

1. Add the sugar (or honey/maple syrup) to a pan (make sure to use a pan that is big enough to hold all the ingredients) and add the cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, star anise, orange and lemon peel and the juice and about half a bottle of wine. For ease, I prick the cloves into the orange peel
2. Bring the wine to the boil, let the sugar dissolve, and boil it to reduce by about half, stirring frequently to make sure nothing burns
3. Add the rest of the wine and the sliced apple and bring the wine to just below boiling point
4. Taste the mulled wine to make sure that you have used enough sugar for your taste. If not, add a small amount of sugar (honey/maple syrup) and let dissolve
5. Keep the wine warm on the lowest possible heat or put it on top of a gas-fire or wood burner (if you have one of those)

Variations:

• If you do not like red wine, try using white wine instead but leave out the star anise and the orange and lemon juice
• For a very dramatic effect: try adding some cranberries when you add the apples but make sure that they do not burst as this will spoil the colour
• If you don't like wine altogether, try using 1 pint of a slightly sweeter beer or ale (scale up if you want to share)
1. Heat the beer or ale with 1 tablespoon of honey, 2 cinnamon sticks, 4 cloves, 1 teaspoon of nutmeg and a few slices of fresh ginger (optional) until hot but not boiling (this will foam up so make sure to use a big enough pan)
2. Leave to stand for about 30 minutes to cool down and strain
3. Re-heat it gently when you are ready for your drink
• For a richer option: separate 1 egg, discarding the egg white, and beat this with 2 teaspoons of sugar for about 5 minutes until almost white in colour
• Slowly, whilst whisking, add 2 tablespoons of the hot beer and pour this mixture into the pan (make sure to whisk constantly)
• Let this heat through for about 5 more minutes and strain (if desired) into glasses (or mugs)
• For an alcohol-free version, replace the wine with fruit juice such as grape or cranberry juice

Enjoy