Showing posts with label tomate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tomate. Show all posts

Wednesday, 9 April 2014

The base is red.

Sauces are so important in our meals; they provide a different consistency, flavour, colour and smell. And I wanted to share with you some knowledge about these sauces, how to make them, their variations and what to eat them with. As there are five 'mother' sauces and more 'small' sauces than I care to count this was going to be quite a project. But one I really wanted to do as I cannot imagine life without some of these wonderful concoctions. Don't get me wrong; I haven't written down all the sauces in the world, not even all the sauces in one single 'cuisine'. What I have done was provide you, I hope, with the most used sauces in most restaurants, varieties are created on an ongoing basis and with the five mother sauces now in your possession, I am sure that you yourself will be able to add to the ever-growing list.

I started this project five days ago with an article on the first of the five mother sauces, Sauce Béchamel or white sauce. A day later I wrote about the second of the mother sauces, Sauce Velouté. Two days ago I was all about the third mother sauce; Sauce Espagnole. Yesterday was devoted to the fourth mother sauce; Sauce Hollandaise. And today I finally come to the last of the mother sauces; Sauce Tomate. You will already have guessed the main ingredient in this sauce; tomatoes. Although we recognise tomato sauce on pasta and pizza, there are a few more steps involved in this mother sauce to create its full flavour.

First you have to render salt pork and then fry some aromatic vegetables. Then you add tomatoes, stock and a ham bone, and simmer it in the oven for a couple of hours. Cooking the sauce in the oven helps to heat it evenly and there is a limited chance of burning... The sauce can be thickened with roux, as was done traditionally, but the tomatoes will act as a thickening agent themselves when cooked long enough (the same as with jams and chutneys). The original recipe contains salt pork, a ham bone and chicken or veal stock but you can leave out the bone, replace the salt pork with 60 millilitre olive oil and replace the stock with vegetable stock.
Ingredients:

  • 60 gram diced salt pork
  • 500 gram diced onion
  • 240 gram diced carrot
  • 240 gram dice celery sticks
  • 1 minced clove of garlic
  • 800 gram (2 cans) crushed or chopped tomatoes, including the liquid
  • 950 millilitre veal or chicken stock
  • 1 ham bone
  • Salt and sugar to taste
  • Herb sachet
    • 1 bay leaf
    • ½ teaspoon dried thyme
    • 4 fresh parsley stems
    • 8-10 crushed black peppercorns
Method:
  1. Preheat oven to 150°C
  2. Tie the sachet ingredients into a cheesecloth sack using a piece of kitchen twine
  3. In a heavy, oven-safe casserole pan, render the salt pork over low heat until the fat liquefies (or heat up olive oil)
  4. Add the carrots, celery, onions and garlic and fry for a few minutes until the onion is translucent but not brown
  5. Add the tomatoes, the ham bone, the stock and the sachet, bring to a boil, cover, and transfer the pot to the oven. Simmer in the oven, partially covered, for two hours
  6. Remove the pan from the oven and remove the sachet and ham bone and blend the sauce in a blender or food processor until smooth, working in batches if necessary
  7. Season to taste with salt and a small amount of sugar — just enough to cut the acidity of the tomatoes
    • If you are not serving the sauce right away, keep it covered and warm until you're ready to use it
The recipes below are all based on half the amount of sauce of the recipe above.

Spanish Sauce
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 250 gram chopped onions, 125 gram chopped green pepper and 1 minced clove of garlic until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 250 gram sliced mushrooms and continue to fry until the mushrooms are soft. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, bring to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and Tabasco and serve.

Sauce Creole 
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 200 gram chopped onions, 125 gram chopped green pepper, 200 gram chopped celery and 1 minced clove of garlic until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, 1 bay leaf, ½ teaspoon dried oregano and the zest of 1 lemon. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, season with salt, pepper and cayenne pepper (to taste) and serve.

Portuguese Sauce
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 200 gram chopped onions until they're translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 475 gram peeled, deseeded and finely chopped tomatoes (concassé) and 1 minced clove of garlic and continue to fry until the tomatoes are soft, about 10 minutes. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, bring to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.


Sauce Provençale
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fry 200 gram chopped onions until they're translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 
475 gram peeled, deseeded and finely chopped tomatoes (concassé), 1 minced clove of garlic and 2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence. Continue to fry until the tomatoes are soft, about 10 minutes. Add a half recipe of Sauce Tomate, 2 tablespoons capers and 2 tablespoons chopped black olives, bring to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

The mother sauce and its four small sauces are each perfect with pasta and the mother sauce itself can also be used as the base for pizzas. Sauce Provençale is perfect with grilled chicken and fish but any of the sauces can take the place of another: it is all up to your own taste and preference.

This is the last article about the five mother sauces; I hope they will be helpful, whether you have been cooking for years or are just starting to cook. Each of the sauces can be adapted to your own tastes and preferences and most of them can be adapted for special diets but, let's face it, a sauce will always be to enrich a meal so making them fat free is nigh on impossible: you need the fat for flavour and texture.

Sauce Espagnole and Sauce Tomate keep well in the freezer and only need reheating and a good stir once hot. Sauce Béchamel can be frozen but needs a little bit more elbow grease once defrosted, meaning that you will have to whisk it whilst reheating. Demi-glace (made from Espagnole) can be frozen or kept in the fridge where it will solidify slightly, which means you can literally take out a tablespoon to add to soups, stocks and gravies as and when needed. Sauce Velouté can be frozen but, like Béchamel, needs a little more work whilst reheating. Sauce Hollandaise needs to be eaten as soon as possible after it is made and does not keep well in either fridge or freezer.

I hope you have enjoyed reading this 'project' as much as I have had creating it. Until the next time and the next project?

Enjoy

Saturday, 5 April 2014

The base is white.


Some meals just wouldn't be the same without a bit of sauce. Just think of Lasagna, Fish Pie or Eggs Benedict; you just wouldn't eat it without a sauce. The Romans used sauce to mask the flavour and smell of ingredients that were... let's say... less than fresh.


Did you know that there are five sauces, called mother sauces, that are the basis for most other sauces? The mother sauces are: Sauce Béchamel, Sauce Espagnole, Sauce Velouté, Sauce Hollandaise and Sauce Tomate. The reason that they are called Mother Sauce (Sauce Mere) is because each of them is the 'head of a unique family' of sauces. The sauces based on the mother sauce is called 'small sauce'. Velouté is the exception as this has three 'daughter sauces'.
  1. Sauce Béchamel: milk-based sauce, thickened with a white roux
  2. Sauce Espagnole: a fortified brown stock sauce, thickened with a brown roux
  3. Sauce Velouté: light stock-based sauce, thickened with a roux or a liaison, a mixture of egg yolks and cream
  4. Sauce Hollandaise: an emulsion of egg yolk, butter and lemon or vinegar
  5. Sauce Tomate: tomato-based
So, what is a sauce exactly? In principle it is a liquid that is combined with some sort of thickening agent and flavourings. Each of the five mother sauces is made with a different liquid, and a different thickening agent — although three of the mother sauces are thickened with roux, in each case the roux is cooked for a different amount of time to produce a lighter or darker colour.

Roux is melted butter (or fat) and flour: melt butter in a pan until 'frothing', add an equal amount of plain flour and stir (using a whisk is the best method to prevent lumps) until a thick paste forms, cook at least until the raw flour taste is gone (it will start smelling biscuit-y).
How long you cook it for depends on which type of sauce you want to make. How much butter and flour you use depends on how thick you want your sauce to be:
  • Pouring sauce: one tablespoon each of butter and flour to 240 millilitre of milk
  • Medium sauce: two tablespoons each of butter and flour to 240 millilitre of milk
  • Thick saucethree tablespoons each of butter and flour to 240 millilitre of milk
Sauce Béchamel, or white sauce, is one of the easiest to make and seems 'boring' to a lot of people but, made well, can be very tasty and is a must if you want to make Lasagna or Fish Pie.


Ingredients:
  • Butter
  • Flour
  • Milk
  • Salt and white pepper
  • Flavourings such as onion (studded with cloves), bay leaf and nutmeg are all optional
Method:
  1. Add milk to a pan with a whole onion (studded with a few cloves) and a bay leaf and bring to a simmer
  2. Remove the flavourings (if used)
  3. Make a roux as above
  4. Add the warm milk as soon as the roux starts smelling biscuit-y but is still white or pale-yellow
  5. Whisk the milk into the roux and leave for a couple of minutes to thicken
  6. Season the sauce with salt and white pepper and a pinch of nutmeg (optional)
Sauce Mornay
Make a medium sauce béchamel and add 60 gram grated gruyere. Mix the cheese well with the sauce and leave to melt.



Sauce Moutarde (or Mustard Sauce)
Make a pouring sauce béchamel and add one tablespoon of whole grain mustard. Mix the mustard into the sauce and leave for a further minute to cook off the harsh flavour.



Sauce Soubise
Heat 30 gram butter in a frying pan and add two roughly chopped onions. Fry the onions until soft and translucent. Add the onions to a blender and puree until smooth Make a medium sauce béchamel and add the onion puree.



Sauce Nantua
This is by far the most complex sauce, not because it is difficult to make but because there are several more ingredients and steps necessary to make this sauce but the effort is well worth it.
Ingredients:
  • 30 gram butter
  • 1 carrot, finely chopped
  • 1 onion, very finely sliced
  • 250 gram raw shrimp or crawfish (with shells and heads on)
  • 2 tablespoons cognac
  • 125 millilitre white wine
  • 375 millilitre fish stock
  • 2 teaspoons tomato paste
  • pinch of cayenne pepper
  • pinch of ground paprika (mild)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 fresh sprig of thyme
  • medium sauce béchamel
Method:

  1. Heat the butter over low heat
  2. Add the carrots and onions and fry for 2 minutes
  3. Chop the shrimp/crawfish and add them to the pan
  4. Turn up the heat and fry until the shrimp/crawfish turn bright red, about 3 minutes
  5. Add the cognac and white wine and reduce the liquid by half
  6. Add the stock, bring to a boil and reduce the liquid by half again
  7. Add the tomato paste, cayenne, paprika, bay leaf and thyme and cook for 30 minutes
  8. Stir in the medium sauce béchamel and let bubble a further 10 minutes
  9. Remove the bay leaf and thyme and pour the contents of the pan into a blender and blend
  10. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing with a ladle to get as much of the 'juice'
  11. Pour the sauce back into a pan and return to the boil
  12. Reduce the sauce by a third and season to taste with salt and white pepper
So now you have the perfect sauces but what do you use them for? Here is a list of ideas:
  1. Sauce Béchamel
    • Cream of ... soup - thin out the sauce with a little more milk or good stock and add fried mushrooms, asparagus, chicken, or anything else you fancy
    • Lasagna
    • Souflé (use the thick sauce for the best result)
    • Gratins
    • Meat croquettes (use the thick sauce for the best result)
  2. Sauce Mornay
    • Gratins
    • Cheese souflé (use the thick sauce for the best result)
    • Eggs
    • Vegetables
    • Chicken
    • Seafood
    • Veal Prince Orloff
  3. Mustard Sauce
    • Cold cooked meats
    • Vegetables
    • Fish
    • Steak
    • Pork
  4. Sauce Soubise
    • Vegetables
    • Chicken
    • Fish
    • Cold roasts
  5. Sauce Nantua
    • Fish
    • Shellfish
Four different sauces for any occasion and all based on that simple, classic, white sauce. But there are many more varieties: Parsley sauce, Crème sauce, Cheddar sauce, Mushroom sauce to name but a few.

Tomorrow I will post the next mother sauce, so stay tuned and, most importantly

Enjoy